ATF leak

Started by busman, 16 March 2021, 10:34

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busman

My daughters 71 auto has always leaked ATF and its been on my to do list for a while. Its been in storage for a couple of years because of health reasons and now its time to bring it out and give it some TLC. I was expecting a big puddle of ATF but nothing, checked the oil tank and its full so stuck a battery in it and took it for a good drive to get it up to temp, parked it up and let it cool down and still no leak. Normally there would be a red puddle underneath. I'm thinking the tank was over filled with ATF when she got it and its been spewing out ?? Does that sound possible ?
66 split window bus

68autobug

YES, that is possible... also, the seal on the dipstick filler  cap may be leaking so it only leaks when the engine is going.. but if it is OK.. and the ATF level is OK....  then everything is OK...
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

busman

Thanks but no it wasnt coming from that area. I went out to the shed yesterday to do some work on it and the dreaded red puddle was on the floor, underneath the torque converter area. I take thats the torque converter seal gone ? Strange how it sat for so long without leaking.
66 split window bus

68autobug

HI,  I believe every time the torque converter is moved slightly, the torque converter seals lips are very hard due to heat, and once moved even slightly it will allow ATF to leak....  I was advised many years ago to replace the torque converter seal every time I take the engine out...  which is good if more than 6 months has passed otherwise the seal maybe ok....  but they do & can leak ATF...  I have a spare gearbox and it has 3 x  10mm holes drilled under the gearbox to allow any leaking ATF to escape...!!   I know its a pain to replace the TC SEAL...and always wipe some ATF on the lips of the seal so it isn't dry....  I did have ATF LEAKING FROM UNDER THE DIPSTICK CAP... renewed the seal and no more leaking...  DEXRON ATF MUST BE USED ..


Lee in Australia
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

busman

OK thanks, do you have a link too where I can get the seal, I'm in NZ.
66 split window bus

volkenstein

busman,
             It's a '71 so you need the orange seal. Best to let your internet fingers do the shopping. Mick Motors in QLD may have one in stock. I've always been forced to shop O.S. mostly.
A lot of places in the states have it - shipping is your enemy.

HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

68autobug

The seal part number is 001 301 083B .  there are two slightly different seals (outer spring or inner spring but I have used both in My 1968 beetle]    One found on ebay was $33  bernharhaehnl-0   in Australia.... says 1971 to 1975 but will fit them all...   there are others just looking at : vw beetle torque converter seal   on the net...  I have been buying most of My parts from the UK as the postage isn't crazy like from the US....  which makes the parts extremely costly... these are a special seal so any of them should be OK... I have found 3 different seals that do the job... I would also replace the engine oil seal... and the two gearbox/engine mounts.. I also found a video where a guy shows how to remove the oil seal etc.... ; VW Autostick - Torque Converter seal removal & fitting..   Now He uses a very different tool to knock the seal into place, but I found just a PVC pipe adaptor that needs to be around 60mm ID..  to fit over the seal... to knock it in...  I did have to get My original seal from Mick Motors in QLD but they did have trouble finding one back then... but I see He has both the early & late seals both in black...
$40-93  each ..   maybe the only Aussie parts shop to have them... as I said I have used both of these seals without any problems...


Lee in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

busman

Do you have a link to the video on removing the seal, I looked on you tube and couldn't find anything . Is it worth taking the torque converter to an auto transmission shop to get it checked or are they usually pretty bullet proof.
66 split window bus

volkenstein

busman,
             Not worth it unless you have heavy scoring on the TC neck where the seal resides.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GlMlcTyF6I  I reckon is the one you are after.


HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"

busman

Got the seal off without any drama, I'm about to order the new one and a rear main seal for the motor, I take it this is a common seal regardless of trans.
66 split window bus

volkenstein

busman,
             Engine seal? Common - just brand matters - Elring = good.

HTH
Volkenstein
'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"