A Restoration in Progress...

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Just a random thought.................

If your intake manifold repair does not work out for you, I have been working on a single port intake manifold for my engine.  It is in relatively good shape, but the preheat tube is clogged up with carbon.  I have been (and will continue) to work on clearing it out.  However, in the meantime I have stumbled into a nearly perfect SP AS manifold.  I am now going to use this new manifold on my project - it's at the powdercoater's right now.  That means I'll have an extra should you need one.  And, hopefully, by the time you might need one I'll have this one cleaned out and ready to go.

[Chris the Eagle]

Thanks Bookwus, I should be near putting the case halves together by Friday of this week. So I should know in a week or two?  I have a question tho, and it could be a matter of opinion.  Have the connecting rods already mounted to the pistons or connect the crankshaft to the connecting rods first, put the case together and then install the pistons.  I haven't decided which to use, but I do remember that it was easier to take apart with the connecting rods left on the crank.  Thanks

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Yep, this might well be a matter of opinion.

Me?  I'd install the pistons after the case.  This would help to prevent any scuffing of the pistons.

Just me.

[greenghia]

Hey Chris,  Looks like you are doing it right I.E. having fun with the rebuild. I noticed from the pictures that you have some overspray on the case sealing halves. Just a friendly warning to be very careful when removing that paint(you are going to remove it?) It is tough to get the case halves to seal and that paint will most probably cause a leak. I believe (be sure to look it up) that the case bolts only have 18 ft/lbs of torque. It is plenty to seal good surfaces and more torque than specified in the manual wont seal uneven surfaces, it  will just warp the case. I also noticed more paint on the bosses where the cylinders meet the engine case and the pushrod tube seats.  It will probably be a drag to take off but it will, again, most likely leak oil if you don't.  Over at the samba website in the performance/engines forum is a thread about sealants to use on the case halves and other places. Good stuff.  Well enough with the unsolicited advice. Good luck with the build and let us know how it turns out.

[Chris the Eagle]

Thanks for the heads up greenghia, any help or tips are appreciated.  I planned on taking the paint off with my dremel tool with a wire brush attachment.  I hope to have the case ready to seal by this weekend.  We shall see.

[Chris the Eagle]

Well the engine is still coming along, however I have run into a snag.  Last night I was staying up late to finish some homework and bug work, I read in one of the latest issues of Hot VW's about setting the distributor in line with the crank, so I decided to remove the distributor drive.  One must remove the plastic fuel pump mount to remove the distributor drive.  Well, the 39 year old part broke, right off in the block.  I have most of the pieces removed and have cleaned out the fragments, but there is still about a 1/2" piece of the plastic still in the tapered part of the block.  What would the best course of action be to remove this piece of plastic?  The case has still not been put together.  Thanks guys.

Greenghia,
I did remove the paint, thanks for the tip!

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

You might want to try this................

Find a wood screw with slightly larger diameter than the hole at the bottom of the plastic mount.  Screw it in very carefully.  When it has a good "bite" go ahead and pull up on the screw head.  You should be able to get the mount out in one piece.

By the way, drain your oil so that any pieces of plastic that have dropped in the sump can be removed.  Don't be too paranoid about all this.  The plastic is not going to do any harm to the internals - but it is a good idea to get rid of as much of it as is possible.

[68autobug]

I believe the base for the fuel pump is made from bakelite
which is VERY brittle
and doesn't like any pressure from any direction...
it just breaks away....

Pull the drive pin out..
then you need a screwdriver with the end bent into a hook
so You can go down thru the center to the bottom
and pull the bakelite piece out....

or a tool that looks like a screwdriver with a bend in the end...

as you don't want the screwdriver's end breaking off....

Lee


http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

[Chris the Eagle]

Update

I have removed the piece of bakelite from the engine block and have proceeded on with the rebuild.  Today I put the rebuild kit into my oil pump and I made sure to clean out all of the parts in the process.  The pump looks like new and has all new seals.  Since my last post I decided to remove the body on the car.  As I get deeper and deeper into the restoration I find parts that need fixing/replacing.  Today I also found out that the PO of the bug removed the stabilizer from the front axle and placed it in the car.  I had this strange looking rod in the car and I almost junked it when I bought the car.  Thankfully I kept the piece.  I noticed the tires were kinda bowed out and that is what triggered me to find out why.  Still in progress, summer doesn't look too profitable for bug work, summer school...

I will have some pics up soon

Chris

[Chris the Eagle]

I do have one question.  Out of my new gasket kit I cannot figure out these 5 sets of gaskets.  Could someone help me determine where they need to go?  Thanks

[68autobug]

Hi Chris,
there are 'O' rings under the pieces that hold the tappets and shaft together
so, You would need 4 of those
they go over the two studs on both heads

I have white o rings but used black ones as i couldn't find the white ones at the time.


Lee

[Chris the Eagle]

Ok, I have set my distributor and I have been cleaning other parts.  I have found out what gaskets under number 5 were, ... but as for 1, 2, 3, 4, I dont know.  I would appreciate some help.  Thanks

Chris

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Just a couple of guesses from me..............

4 looks like a distributor "O" ring and 3 looks like oil cooler seals.

[volkenstein]

How large a diameter is No 4? Maybe a flexplate/flywheel o-ring?

No 1's...hard plastic or rubber? Hard plastic may be new throttle shaft bushes?

HTH
Volkenstein