Engine removal steps

Started by Gary Wood, 01 September 2012, 06:30

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Gary Wood

I have pulled many manual engines but never an auto-stick what is different


Yes its much more complicated... You must drain all the ATF out of the ATF TANK..
and disconnect all the ATF hoses and pipes etc..
Also You need to undo the 4 special bolts holding the torque converter to the engine flexplate - You do that thru the square holes in the bell housing of the gearbox.
also when you do pull the engine away from the gearbox have something underneath to catch the ATF that comes from the torque converter..
You can tie the torque converter to the gearbox with a bit of wire so it stays on the gearbox as You pull the engine out.

You will need to replace the torque converter seal [MUST BE REPACED] and it must be peined around the outside.. with a punch in about 4-5 places so it won't pop out..
also the 2 seals in the dual engine oil/ATF pump.. 
evw.com sells these and T/C seals too.
I always replace the ATF fluid at this time too..

that are the bits I can remember



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler