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68 Autostick Need Help

Started by David68Beetle, 23 May 2012, 19:11

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David68Beetle

Hello VW Autostick friends!  You all are so awesome!  I'm restoring 68 Beetle semi-autostick, the car keep grinding and won't go into R, L, 1st & 2nd gears.  After reading some of the answers & questions concerning about crunching, I'm able to get R, L & 1st gear to work.  Thank a lot for great information!  Especially to Mike & Lee.  I'm glad to find this good website...

This is what I did to the car:  I adjusted the Servo nut half a turn like Lee suggested, keep adjusting until it goes into gear, I also moved around the stick shift stop plate.

The last thing that doesn't work out for me is 2nd gear; it keeps grinding, no matter how far I adjusted the servo nut out.  I decided to take a closer look at the shift rod; I found out that the bushing is very bad shape.

*I also notice that the shift rod is bend a little closer to the coupler, my question is:  are shift rods supposed to be straight or bend?
*Can somebody show me how to replace the shift rod guide metal bracket? 

I'm looking forward to receive comment or suggestion from you all,  appreciate for sharing information.

David68Beetle

68autobug

Hi David
Yes the shifter rod has a slight bend in it, the reason I know this,
is because two autostick owners straightened the rod.. and then had to re-bend it as all the gears disappeared..lol
Usually reverse is difficult to select because of the worn out nylon bush
First time I have heard it was Drive 2..  and I wouldn't have guessed it was the bush.. lol

Have You replaced all the vacuum hoses?
You can buy the original brand of hose = cotton covered steel wire reinforced
but I used a usa made air hose that trucks and tractor trailers use.
POWAFLEX MULTIPURPOSE 12.7MM W.P 300PSI
I have used it before and replaced it recently while I had the fan housing and tinware off the engine.  it hadn't failed at all, I just replaced it and the small vacuum hose between the carburetor and the control valve.
Once all the vacuum hoses are replaced You will know that any problems and its NOT the vacuum hoses..  lol
I replaced all My ATF hoses in 2005 with hydraulic hose. Some people have had new hoses made up using either New fittings or re-used the old fittings on the new hose.

cheers

LEE in Australia




-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

David68Beetle

Hello Mr. Lee,

thank you very much for your response & recommendation.  I ordered the shift rod bushing and guide
metal bracket from cip1.com.  Hopefully, it's not an internal drive 2 gear problem. 

I replaced all the vacuum hoses with 'Smog Hose cloth braid', I don't know how good these kind of hoses
is, I didn't know that I can use other kind of hoses like the one you recommend.

For the ATF I still use the original hoses, If I can fix the 2nd drive, I'll replace ATF with a new hose.
What exactly hydraulc hoses do you use for your ATF system?

I checked in your other post concerning about the 'adjusting clutch', I don't really understand how to adjust
the clutch.  I'll try to read those posts again to make sure I do the clutch adustment correct.

I followed all the steps from 'Bentley Manual' but it's seem to me that It's not correct.  I'll let you know when
I'll replace the bushing.

I really appreciate for your time.

David

68autobug

Hi David
I don't know what size hydraulic hoses You would use. I replaced mine while I was working and making up hydraulic hoses.  Many people have taken them to a hydraulic hose shop and had them made up, but the last person to have them made had problems as there wasn't enough ATF flowing thru them due to a blockage at a fitting. I used the original fittings and used hose the same size. I will try to find what size and type of hose I used. it should be printed on the hoses.
Its quite difficult to adjust the clutch servo adjuster. You really need 3 small hands.. lol
Most people have found the adjusting method  in the manuals quite useless.
I tried for a long time and even made the tool the used for measuring, but I believe its only good for a new clutch and so long as the adjuster has never been touched..
I will explain next time how to do it.. or the way I did it.

The smog type hose may be OK, I don't know. If its used with vacuum it will be OK, even if its not it should last for a few years.
I hope the bushing replacement fixes Your problem.
The bushing and the bottom of the gear stick need to be greased with lithium based moly grease - black/purplish color..

cheers

LEE



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

David68Beetle

Hello LEE!

After replacing shifter rod bushing, rod guide metal bracket, and coupler, I get no luck to get 2nd gear to work.
the 2nd gear still grinding...The Reverse, Low, First gear are working fine, actually It gives me smoother shifting
into these gears.

I adjusted the stop plate, and sleeve on servo rod as you suggested half turn at a time. I also replaced the
shifter spring, the spring near the coupler. I bought the spring from the link below.
(Shifter Spring) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=687324

Could you please help me to explain the way you adjust the lever for shift clutch?  or do you have any other suggestion for me?


Thank you in advance,


David

68autobug

Hi  david
My car used to crunch when going from low up to drive 1
from LOW to drive 2 was OK...
the points switch in the gearshifter was too wide
it is actually not tightened.. but I screwed it in yesterday when I found I could turn the gearshifter around.. so, that has helped a lot but I think I need to adjust the reverse lockout plate slightly
as when going from Low to drive 1, If I push the gearlever hard to the right it works OK...  so I need to move the plate slightly to the right and maybe forwards slightly....
I don't really like touching the reverse lock out plate when it is actually working... lol  as You can have all sorts of problems if You move it too far etc... although I have done it lots of times before..

Maybe You are having the same problem..
You can adjust the points switch by tightening right up so it works with very little pressure.. but I don't like it too close as if anyone bumps it, it disengages the clutch./.
that is why the autostick has the IRS rear suspension as it doesn't move about as much as a swing axle beetle does.
Only Autosticks and super beetles had IRS CV Joint rear ends in most countries..  apart from USA Canada

cheers

LEE



-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

David68Beetle

Hello VWAR Friends!

Drive 2 is still a problem for me.  I moved the lockout plate & adjust the point switch inside the stickshift.
Reverse, Low and Drive 1 are alway work great for me.  When I shifted into Drive 2, it looks like it goes in the gear at
the coupler, but it grinds...

I try to search for Drive 2 problem question and answer, but I can't find anything that relate to my problem.
Could somebody please help me to point out what else I can do for Drive 2 to work?


David

David68Beetle

Hello Mr. Lee!

Could you help me to give an instruction of how to adjust the clutch arm?  I adjusted stop plate, adjusting sleeve on the servo, switch point inside the stickshift ..and 2nd Drive still don't work for me. 

So adjust the clutch arm is the last resort for me.  I hope the 2nd drive will work with your instruction to adjust the clutch arm.

Thanks,

David


68autobug

Hi David
Sorry to be so late in answering Your question.
Usually, I say to undo the locking nut on the adjuster about 1/2 a turn then screw the adjuster until it touches the locknut
then start the engine and see if You can select reverse without crunching, but I don't thing that is the problem.
The only other thing I can think of is,
is the reverse  lockout plate needs to be moved slightly....  they can be a problem to set up properly.
there should be a spring connected to the end of the shifter shaft that pulls the shaft to the LHS under the gear shifter
hole in the tunnel..  I'm having great problems at the moment fitting a new gear shifter into the shaft..
I will need to take the spring off to fit the gear shifter into the shaft [socket]

If You cannot find the problem here then I'm afraid it must be in the gearbox itself..

cheers

LEE in Australia

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug




Lee in Australia













-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug