New Plumbing!

[bowlingbrad]

COOL!  Thanks!

Hey, I don't see any hose clamps.  None required due to vacuum?

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

You are correct, sir.

Due to the nature of braided hosing (they work like those finger handcuffs) they will not just come off a fitting.  Matter of fact, they can be darn hard to remove.  So, I have started doing away with the hose clamps.

But do notice the hose clamps on the fuel lines.  A good back-up safety system is essential.

[bowlingbrad]

... I used an original VW vacuum tube I found in a boneyard....

What is the diameter? Length?  I can bend one, right? What tools are needed to bend this properly.  Any pictures of this tube with its proper bends?

[68autobug]

Hi
You did some good work there..
the major problems with autostick VWs is usually the previous owner...

electrical tape doesn't even work good on electrical wiring in a hot engine compartment.
and when in contact with oil ATF etc.... its really hopeless...

the holes in the fan housing are for plastic spark plug lead holders.
they just push in...   and stop any air escaping..

cheers

LEE

[bowlingbrad]

Anyone know if this metal line will work on my ghia?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=428734

Is there a way to make this?  I just need to know the diameter and the shape.  Pictures?

I hope I'm not getting too annoying.  I will definitely post pictures of my progress for all to peruse!

Brad

[68autobug]

Anyone know if this metal line will work on my ghia?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=428734

Is there a way to make this?  I just need to know the diameter and the shape.  Pictures?

I hope I'm not getting too annoying.  I will definitely post pictures of my progress for all to peruse!

Brad

Hi Brad

that is a standard vacuum pipe for a SVDA distributor...
I just bought one recently too...
as  I will be buying an SVDA dizzy also in the future...

Nothing is annoying... Brad

Just keep asking away and someone will answer Your questions.
We all learn at the same time.. lol

cheers

LEE

[bowlingbrad]

Here are pictures from my adventure today.

Just double-checking that I really DO have a 34PICT-3...


I took a bunch of BEFORE pictures to make sure I put everything back correctly.


My vwar research papers printed.  I also made a box to hold the carb for drilling...


How the heck to you take that nut off??!!  I managed to get it off with patience and imagination.


I used a dental-like tool for hoses to catch the nut after I loosened it.


Here I go... I drilled a 4mm hole 10mm deep, then a 2mm hole the rest of the way!


Here's the finished product.  4mm brass tube pressed in and held in with Loctite.


Here's where the hole ends up inside the carb.


Everything is going fine.  I will post more in a few minutes.

[bowlingbrad]

The 009 took a lot of convincing to eventually get it out.


After I took it off.  I found a bolt missing a nut!  I put a nut and lockwasher on before I put the new SVDA in.


New SVDA.  I checked the points, and lined everything up with #1 cylinder TDC.


While I was at it, I replaced a bunch of wonky wiring to the fuses as well as the negative ground to the battery.


Finished product.


Next post will talk about timing...

[bowlingbrad]

Now about timing....

I watched the bug me video, I looked through the bently and haynes books, and I looked at my pulley...



I determined that the static timing for my engine with autostick is 0 degrees TDC.  I did not time it to 7.5 BTDC.  I got it timed and I turned in both adjustment screws in.  I backed out the large screw (5) 1/2 turns and I backed out the small screw (10) 1/2 turns.

SHE STARTED RIGHT UP!!!  The idle seems fine.  It shifts into gear a little better than before.  I took it out for a test drive and the acceleration has dramatically improved (as much as possible with a little 4cyl engine).  No more flat spot!

Since I have no experience or knowledge about timing and idle, how am I going to know I did all I can?  Is there a way to determine if I used the right timing?  I can post my engine number if you feel that it will help.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

Nice work there!  You're going to be the one handing out seasoned advice in no time!

About adjusting the carburetor...........  the general rule of thumb is that a good starting place (as in you are mounting a brand new or rebuilt carburetor) is to turn out the volume control screw (the small one) 2 1/2 turns from a gentle bottom out.  The same applies to the bypass screw (the large one).  I'm thinking that Rob (of Rob & Dave) advises turning out the bypass screw a bit more just to insure that you can get an idle.  Personally, I've found that 2 1/2 turns on each screw works for me.  But this is only the starting point, and I'd recommend that you follow Rob's procedure all the way through.  It does work!

About the timing.  John Connely (of aircooled.net) instructs that his SVDAs are to be timed to 7.5* BTDC.  It does not matter if vacuum hoses are connected.  Timing will always be dependent on the distributor used, not the engine.  So yours needs to be timed to 7.5 BTDC.  And make sure your idle is under 1000 RPMs when you time or it gets all screwy fast.

And.......now that you have the correct vacuum port drilled on the carburetor, you may want to tweak the adjustment screw atop the control valve to sharpen or soften the shift action a bit.  Your preference entirely.

ps..........good move on bolting up that "loose stud".  That nut and stud functions to hold the center casting of a dual port manifold in place.  Without it you run a very real risk of the center moving and rupturing the manifold rubber gaskets.

[volkenstein]

Brad,
       X2 for 7.5 BTDC.

Your Engine is a Dual Port, jJust use the "0" mark on the pulley for reference.

Excellent work. That rear carb nut and the upper exhaust nuts at the front (front of car) are miserable things. I have an "S" spanner which is great, but there is a spanner just for those type of nuts!

Enjoy
Sean

[bowlingbrad]

Thanks a bunch for the kind words.  I am just doing what all of you suggested.  I really didn't figure anything out on my own.  The only assumption I made (static timing) was wrong...

Nice work there!  You're going to be the one handing out seasoned advice in no time!

My best advice would be, "If you have the money, have someone else do it!"

...I'd recommend that you follow Rob's procedure all the way through.  It does work!

I am assuming you mean this: http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html#tdc

And make sure your idle is under 1000 RPMs when you time or it gets all screwy fast.

Idle timing with a strobe?  Never used one before.  Is it easy?  What do you mean by 'screwy fast'?

...tweak the adjustment screw atop the control valve to sharpen or soften the shift action a bit...

Please finish the following two statements:
1.  Turn the adjustment screw CLOCKWISE in order to..
2.  Turn the adjustment screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE in order to..

[68autobug]

Hi Brad
You are doing really fine....
You can adjust the Control valve to whatever suits Your style of driving..
Fast or slow changing etc...
similar with the gear shifter..
You can adjust the points towards the bottom of the gear shifter for quick or slow changing..

I didn't realise that My shifter is loose at the points connection
and it used to tighten up so when I moved the gearlever
the points didn't close... I found i had to really change very slowly
so I could change gears...  it was just the leverage of the gearshifter..
I unscrewed it a bit and now I can change excellent....

You are lucky Brad to have so much room around Your engine...
I just changed My spark plugs while i had the fan housing off...

the back nut on the Carburetor....
I cut off a spanner so I could use it..
but I can't tighten it enough... lol
I need a curved spanner... like Mikes...

cheers

LEE

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

......My best advice would be, "If you have the money, have someone else do it!"

Remember that in adapting your carburetor to run effectively with the AutoStick system you performed a procedure that "someone else" (most VW mechanics) doesn't even have a clue about.  You sir, are becoming the expert.

...I'd recommend that you follow Rob's procedure all the way through.  It does work!

I am assuming you mean this: http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html#tdc

You are correct sir.

And make sure your idle is under 1000 RPMs when you time or it gets all screwy fast.

Idle timing with a strobe?  Never used one before.  Is it easy?  What do you mean by 'screwy fast'?

Using a timing (strobe) light is as easy as falling off a log.  Just a matter of hooking one lead to the + terminal on the coil, one lead to a ground, and the special lead to ther number one spark plug wire.  Then start the engine and point the gun at the main pulley and pull the trigger.  That's it.............well besides moving the distributor to line up the timing mark with the case seam.  The essence of simplicity.  I paint my TDC and 7.5* mark on my pulley for easy recognition.

Trying to time the engine (with an OEM style distributor) with a timing light at anything other than the proper idle RPMs can give you some screwy reading with the timing light because the distributor is advancing the firing point as you speed up the engine.  So, it looks as if your timing is waaaay too advanced.  Just time at a proper idle and you'll be fine.

Please finish the following two statements:
1.  Turn the adjustment screw CLOCKWISE in order to..
2.  Turn the adjustment screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE in order to..

Ahh,.......yes.  Well, it's not quite as simple as that given that there are two screws that need your attention.  The volume control screw (small screw) controls the amount of air getting into the mixture.  Turning it clockwise will cut down on the air in the mixture.  Conversely turning it counterclockwise will allow more air in and lean out the carburetor.  In actuality, this screw is turned out 2 1/2 turn from bottom-out as an initial setting.  Aside from a little tweaking in Rob & Dave's instructions it's pretty much at home right there.

The bypass screw is another matter.   You actually set the idle with this guy although setting the idle must be done in conjunction with the volume control screw. Again a counterclockwise turn will tend to increase idle (you definitely want to have a tach hooked up while you are adjusting this screw so you can dial in an idle RPM of less than 1000 - shoot for 950) and clockwise will decrease the idle.

[bowlingbrad]

Thanks Mike!

I appreciate the explanation about the two screws, but what I was trying to ask was about the adjustment screw on the autostick control valve.  How about a go at completing the statements now?

Thanks again.