AS shift rod ???

[Rick]

Hi guys, As you know I'm restoring my 71 Vert AS- Greta. I'm up to the transaxle and am replacing the clutch and TO bearing. I always had a problem with her for the last 2 years , that when in D1 75% of the time she would be fine under acceleration, the othjer 25% she would jump out of first into neutral. All the other gears D2- R and Low hold and work fine. While worging on Greta I noted that when I shift into Reverse the shift rod goes almost all the way into the nosecone  ( there is about )1/4 inch space between nose cone and end of shift rod. However when I shift into D1 the space is about 5/8"- the rod seem not to go into the nosecone as far. Before I pull the AS transaxle and send out to be rebuilt-is it possible that the shift rod is not going all the way into the nosecone when in D1 ( need shift plate adjustment?). I'm 50/50 about pulling the transaxle out. The engine is out being rebuilt. Any ideas. Is it normal to have that much of a space between NC and shift rod when in D1?. Could a bad synchro stop the rod from going all the way back when in D1. So far you guys have all been on the nose in helping me. Any ideas?
Rick
New Jersey, USA


Rick

[singlecab61]

Hey there,

I don't think your shift rod would be the culprit in this case. If the shift rod is factory, not damaged in any way and the shift coupler is in good shape, a worn out transmission sliding shift gear and/or worn gear dog teeth will most likely be the issue. Has it ever ground (gear grind) the gear when engaging D1? As far as the different distance between the nosecone and coupler, this can be normal in most cases. This can be caused by the shift fork adjustment inside the transmission. 

Here is something to check. Shift into each gear. While in each gear, wiggle the shifter forward and back slightly. If there seems like the shifter is tight in a particular gear, (zero free play) your shifter adjustment could be out. When you are in any gear, the shifter should have a tiny bit of forward/back free play, this means the gear is fully engaged in the tranny and the shifter is not holding it from full engagement. Your shifter would be correctly adjusted if reverse lock out worked with the shifter adjusted in this position.   

If your coupler is contacting the nosecone, then there is a definite issue with either a bent hockey stick or a poorly made coupler. I have seen aftermarket couplers (mostly the early round red polyurethane ones) contact the nose cone preventing full gear engagement. I had this issue on my single cab. I got rid of the poly urethane P.O.S. and installed a factory one that was welded solid.

A few things to think over. Now is the time to pull a tranny for repair while the engine is out. I have sneaky suspicion your new engine will make the tranny jump out of gear much more often from the increase in horsepower/torque as compared to the old engine.           

Good luck!
     -Evan

[volkenstein]

Rick,
      Have a search for one of Mike's posts re shift rod. I have a spare trans, I'll check the movement's of first vs reverse although it sounds about right.

I'm with Evan, pull the trans now rather than later. When you pull the trans, you can seperate the bellhousing from the trans, still with the TC wired/fixed into the bellhousing. Fiddly and such (messy too), but it may spare you a TC seal purchase.

You should take the opportunity to examine the shift rod/bushing/coupler in the light of day.


Regards
Sean

[Rick]

Evan and Sean thanks for the advice. I think your right and I'm going to pull the trans out this week. Might as well do it right!! Any feedback from the chaps at eVW. I know they sell AS transaxles and clutch disc. I'll keep you guys posted.


Rick
new Jersey

[volkenstein]

Rick,
      Feedback? I've never had a problem with Joe and the road crew there. At least they are one shop that keeps the A-S flag flying.
I know one or two (haven't looked in yonks) on TheSamba have had a bitch 'n' whinge, but most are OK with them.

Regards
Sean