VWAR Old forum !

Thanks guys . I found a replacement at Bugcity. I paid alot for it. But its a daily driver so I was in a pinch.

I found a replacement at Bugcity.com. But before I put in the new clutch servo I need to make sure there is nothing causing these blow outs. My old diaphragm had a hole in it, and I replaced it about two years ago. Now this one has the same kind of tear. Was it just a weak diaphragm or is there something else causing the problem

All:
Ref my post previous to this one. I took off the vacum control valve and had a look inside. I have a rotted/torn diaphragm inside (part 29 in the Haines Manual, the upper small rubber diaphragm) see attached photo. Obviously this part is no longer available. Do any of you have any 'work arounds' or substitute ideas I could use to fix/replace this?
Many Thanks,

Tom

P.S. I have tried to attach a photo but cannot get it to work. I can e-mail separately.

Hiya Tom,

Welcome to the group!

The"slams into gear" syndrome is a pretty common one judging from the number of folks who have complained about it.  Usually the problem boils down to the fact that the small vacuum hose from the control valve has been hooked up to the wrong vacuum port on the carburetor.  Wrong, in this case, meaning that the vacuum signal signal is way too strong.  Even adjusting the control valve in this situation will have little effect on the shift action due to the strength of the vacuum.  The correct vacuum signal has to be drawn from above the butterfly.

However it sounds as if you MAY (check out the above info anyway to be sure your setup does comply) have your vacuum hooked up correctly.  While you are correct in that the clutch servo could be the culprit, I would be inclined to check out two other areas first.

Check out the "front end" of your control valve.  Where the small vacuum hose from the carb hooks up.  It might be possible that there is an obstruction or an impediment inside the control valve which is causing a jerking shift action.  The valve discs inside the control valve should move freely and the diaphragm should be intact and pliable.  The insides of these things are usually pretty clean, even in cars with extensive mileage.  But it's quite possible that a car which has sat for over twenty years could have a few parts that are a bit "sticky".

Also take a look at the vacuum reservoir tank just outboard of the control valve and under the rear fender  You mentioned no vacuum leaks.  Does that go for the tank also?

Everyone:

Let me start by saying that I am new to the forum and to the autostick (which I really like). I have the classic problem; slams into R and L. I have read everything posted on this fourm on the subject. Let me give you the basics and what I have done. Hopefully some of you can help me with this. I have a 60 type 1 and am a pretty decent mechanic (my own estimation). I have worked on them for many years (not a novice).

    - 68 type 1 autostick 44,000 origional miles, 100% stock, un-touched, and rust free. I aquired the car after 22 years in storage.
    - Removed engine, replaced air seals, fuel lines, ATF lines, all vacum lines with OEM wire wrapped, C&R carb, changed oil, comp test (120 lbs X4 all the same!), complete tune-up. Started it up for 2 min, changed oil again, and again ect.... The engine runs great under all conditions and loads. Made all adjustments with idle set 850-900 rpm.
    - Checked vacum system for leaks, none anywhere. The AS system seems to function perfectly. It shifts smoothly under all conditions except into R or L while standing still. I have tried adjusting the control valve. If I adjust it to the point where it will not slam in to R or L then the release time for 1 and 2 is extensive (20-30 seconds or not at all).
    - Torque converter has to be good, it will go almost 80 mph...
    - Things I do not understand:

        1. I can disconnect the small vacum line from the carb and and leave it hanging. It makes no difference in this problem (yes it is connected to the correct place on the back of the origional stock carb) but I have tired it on the vacum advance port too. Still no difference. I can only detect the slightest of vacum from the port.

        2. Servo free play adjustments. I have tried this but someone had apparently also done it in the past. I set it us as best I could IAW Haines with no effect. Why is this procedure so convoluted in the AS? MT freeplay is straight forward. This should be too. Do any of you have any alternative procedures?

I have to think it is a servo adjustment problem at this point. Perhaps too much travel overcomes the mechanical advantage within the servo??? I would appreciate any advice wisdom any of you have.

Thanks, Tom

Hiya Cisco,

This just in from Joe Langlois at eVW............  he says that eVW is awaiting a shipment of servo repair kits right now.  I'm guessing from that information, that the servo kits are still being made.  In any event, you might want to check with Joe at eVW.

here's my opinion.

1st you have a nice car no doubt, but from the pictures I'm not for the following:

A.  red seat belts - 1st it does not match the red tone of the car. 2nd I think the black belt would look nicer a preserve the classic image of the car

B. red rear drum brakes - again I'd go for black. the red drums just draws the attention to that area which if you think of it, is not worth it as drums are not "race" type technology.

Am not against the color red, I had red '69 beetle once, very similar to the one you have. I just think that a good looking car should have the right color scheme and tones in the right places.

just my thoughts

I picked up the car yesterday. I'm head over heels. The 72 turned out to be in perfect original shape and theres no rust and it has never been welded before. And yes it's the standart body style with the 1300 dp engine. Theres no undercoating and the floors and sills are in great rustfree shape. İt just had one repaint job 6 years ago and the paint is looking good. As I mentioned before the autostick gearbox has been replaced with a manual box. But ı'm planning to convert it back to autostick with your help. I'll try to post the pics of my new ride. Thanks a lot.

I can supply the Oil seals needed for your Dual Oil Pump.

Don't try and re-use the existing ones after a pump strip down, as the keyway in the shaft for the Woodruff key can put a very small nick in the seals.
So even if they were ok when removed, there is no guarantee that they will last.
Is it worth the risk??

I can supply Black Nitrile (up to 135°C) seals for £15/pair,
or Red/Orange Viton (up to 240°C) seals for £20/pair

Can post to anywhere in the world at your cost.

I would recommend Viton, as Nitrile ages quicker, going hard. Viton offers more resistance to this.

Contact me for yor requirements.

Auto Stickshift Gearbox complete with Torque converter and Vacuum Servo.

Was bought as a spare for my recently sold bug, and is now in the way.
I can guarantee that the servo works, but have never used the 'box, however it was bought on the understanding that it had recently been overhauled.  £100

Rear window seal for '69 type bug with trim new never fitted £10

bonnet straight but tatty round the edges £5

Two brazilian complete floor repair panels. LH and RH. small section (approx 10" by 10") removed at rear, but otherwise like new. £5 each


All ono + P&P, or collection can be made from Warrington, UK.


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