My replacement pulley jams tight into the tinwork when installed. The engine cannot be turned.
When I place the Original Equipment pulley down flat on it's face next to the replacement aluminun pulley, the OE shaft is longer than the replacement by 8.55 millimeters.
Is there a difference because of the auto trans pump or was I given the wrong part? I have photos but can't figure out how to attach them.
I think Your replacement is incorrect...
I have heard that many aftermarket pulleys made in Taiwan or China etc
are made to the wrong dimensions...
I just replaced My alternator pulleys [two halves]
with nice new gold ones... but when done up, they just keep on going
until they touch the alternator....
I managed to find two 15mm thin shim washers, which I placed
on the alternator shaft and then the pulley....
My Son had to do the same with His 'gold' pulleys...
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Lee Noonan 68AutoBug Australia
If You look on MY website at one of the last photos...
My broken flywheel pulley... alloy with timing degrees...
I had to hold the crankshaft while doing up the gland Bolt on the other end of the crankshaft... that holds the flexplate on...
Firstly I broke it while undoing the gland bolt....
after the flexplate was welded... I had to hold it while the gland bolt was done up to 235 ft lbs torque.... which is a lot of torque.... :cry: :roll:
:cry: :lol:
Lee Noonan 68AutoBug Australia
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
I have bought another alloy degree crankshaft pulley but have not put it on as yet...
I had the same trouble with New alternator pulley....
I do the nut up and it goes until the alternator can't turn...
I found two thin 15mm shim washers which do the job nicely...
I still have to pull the old flexplate off and put the replacement one back on.... so I'm hoping the old alloy pulley stands up to it.....
cheers
Lee
well the old alloy pulley stayed together, but
My New EMPI Crankshaft pulley with degrees printed on it and was polished up really nice, but
When I did the bolt up, I couldn't turn the engine over as the pulley was hard up against the engine...
Another Austostick owner in Australia made a Shim for Me to correct the pulley... 3mm wide..
I saw pulleys for sale at a VW Show recently, and they came with a shim...??
Why not make the pulleys identical to the original??
I have seen the shims for sale in the USA...
for the Crankshaft Pulley and the alternator....
We didn't have this problem with the original German made items..
Lee -- 68AutoBug -- Australia --
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
The shank on the aluminum degree pulleys are not long enough for the autostick. Remember, your running 2 pumps, not 1 like a 4 speed. I hear someone makes a spacer, but I decided to stick with the stock pulleys, and just have chrome crank bolt and alternator nut, and washers, looks fine, and the quality of the stock stuff is better anyway... Dennis
PS... Chrome don't get ya home. lol
Dennis/Lee,
What happened with this was after 74vbug and I compared measurements of stock & alloy pulleys we figured he may have been given a sand seal pulley. He went back to the shop, checked another and it was "correct", slapped it on and off he motored. Cobey bought an alloy one and it bunged on with no mods either.
Both Lee and I have had our issues with alloy pulleys, I was able to machine spacers up for his and mine.
I wouldn't be surprised if it all comes down to just who the manufacturer is and what (or lack thereof) QC they do.
Enjoy
Volkenstein
I remember seeing a degree pulley in a factory package somewhere, that had the spacer with it, but that was years ago. Personally, I prefer the stock pulleys anyway for my purposes, long as I know where TDC is, im fine. When I set my timing, I rev the engine till it stops advancing, and set the TDC mark to where the belt starts to go behind the face of the pulley. Works for me...
I am using a Gene Berg pulley which seems fine even though I haven't run the engine yet!