hey kids! im back!
been a while always cruizin' my 68 auto stick but now i cant!
i had a progressive weber installed last week.. but the primary jet was blocked, and on its first start up it fouled a lead/point on the dissy cap, i found this out after replacing all the points. so its still running on 3 cylinders.
i have now replaced the dissy cap, and am waiting on new leads which will arrive tomorrow
last friday i drove to and from work in the auto stick, shifter working 100%
the drive to work was quick and easy, as it was very early inthe morning and hardly any traffic, i had no warning lights, and no incidents, apart from a high idle due to an air leake in one of my manifolds, and one cylinder not fireing - i know bad idea to drive it like this.. but i work in a porsche repairer panel shophought i could get some leads from a supplier
anyways the drive home was long - lots of traffic, and i had a warning light that looked like the high beam light, but a smaller version, on the LEFT onthe speedo, not the ATF light
by the time i got home my atf filler neck was too hot to touch, and the firewall insulation around it had started to smoulder.
i left it till i could touch it, and checked the levle - it was inbetween the markers, and still pink looking
since that day i cannot engage reverse at all, but all 3 forward gears engage.
i hope that the new leads tomorrow will get the car running on all 4 cylinders, so i can hopfully get it to a shop to have the weber re-jetted and tuned on a dyno. BUT will my atf get really hot again?
the car is my daily and i really need it running, i dunno what to do!!!
thanks fellas,
Damien (Australia)
Damien,
I updated my reply on AVD..but it didn't bump it. If your engine is
running rich/lean and like crap you may just be suffering residual heat issues..ie your motor is running hot and the piripheral parts (torque converter/ATF pump) are soaking it up.....
Volkenstein aka ctefeh
that could very well explain the excessive heating up as it's never been a problem before.. but any ideas on not being able to select reverse? my microswitch in the shifter is fine grounding to shift, and ungrounding for clutch to engage, as i cleaned it all up and rebuilt/tensioned it, im gonna hafta push it out of my driveway and take off in low wednesday when i take it to the mechanic :)
Damien,
Apart from maybe doing a shift bushing check and a fiddle with the selector plate....And check the coupling under the inspection plate underneath the rear seat.
If it just won't go you may be up for a trans yank.
I'd have a look at the oil (your mechanic might) in your transaxle to see if there's any brass/bronze/steel flakes in it....
Sorry, bit of a bummer....I'll check my manuals to see what selecting reverse involves.
Volkenstein aka ctefeh
the shifter goes into the reverse position fine, stayes there fine. but the clutch wont engage, its asif it hasnt broken the ground
Damien,
It actually goes into position, just don't go nowhere!!!!
You could test what happens by pulling up on the stick when it's in reverse to see if that helps....otherwise....time for a good hard look at the trans.
I gather Low range has no issues? I'll check the books later but I am fairly certain reverse gear is on it's own (sort of...) compared to L,1 & 2.
Volkenstein
Damien,
If you can shift OK into L, it's the same shifter fork for reverse.
It engages a stand-alone spur gear. If you drain your transaxle via the plug (you have an early trans so it should have one), if there is anything wrong inside the oil will be have metal particles in it.
If it shifts into L, it should work going to reverse unless it's not actuating the fork properly, or reverse is knackered. Kind of hard to see reverse working one day, clapped out the next in a transaxle without some prior warning signs.....
Volkenstein
is the fork accessable with the trans in? i would like to be able to rectify the trans before taking the car to get the weber tuned.. apprentice wages mean im already borrowing money to get the tune done :(
Damien,
I'll check later on my spare trans but I think the front trans mount is on the hockey stick housing (call it the nosecone)...it may be possible to support the trans, take off the front mount, take of the nosecone and have a fiddle. Otherwise it means trans out to get to the forks. You still won't be able to see reverse gear as it is in the next housing....
How did you go with making sure the gearstick was "up" once in reverse?
Same goes for making sure the shift coupling isn't having a problem....
You could check the trans oil if you do a drain and refill...it's a PITA but it's only your time, not your dough. You could grab a stocking (mum or GF will surely understand the necessary sacrifice :D ) to filter the oil as it drains out if you don't have a filter funnel.
Volkenstein
Damien,
I'd actually lean more to supporting the engine than the trans since your engine is still attached!!!
I reckon the weight of the engine will pivot the trans at the bellhousing, so best go carefully......
Sorry about that...I was visualising how my donor trans came out...and it didn't have the engine attached!
Volkenstein
Damien,
I've had a look at my spare trans, and the chassis on the donor bug and I would honestly have to say that getting the nosecone off while the trans is in would be making a rod for your own back, if not impossible.
It's very tight between the body mount and where the mount attaches to the trans, and then add in the fact that the shift shaft and part of it's support actually enter the chassis hole to hook up with the selector rod. And you have to pull the nosecone toward the chassis (ie, further into it) to get it off.
Leave it be, don't use reverse if you can help it, but I would check your transaxle oil to make sure you haven't got metal particles in there.
Volkenstein
Damien,
The reverse spur gear is located in the top of the case...the picture in my manual shows the gear housing case upside down for clarity.
I checked against my spare and sure enough the shaft is above the ring and pinion.
If you do decide to have a look, if you take off the sump plate (lot's of oil!!!!) the shaft for reverse gear is above the pinion and should have a circlip and large washer on it. The washer is waved to tension the shaft against the housing. You can check for serious slop if you decide to go ahead...
The manual also suggests measuring voltage at the solenoid (I'm a bit skeptical in your case....but nothing ventured, nothing gained...) and I thought of what about if your bushings on the clutch shaft are stuffed. Grab the clutch arm and give it a good wiggle.....
Unless someone else put's their two cents worth in.....I'm fresh out of ideas for external checks.....
Volkenstein
thanks ctefeh!
i really appreciate all your help.. im a bit scared to touch it to be honest.. and i have F%^k all tools here so im gonna get the boys at Australian Performance VW centre to have a bo-peep.. atleast i should be able to drive it that far:/
get a test light and check to see if you are still grounded after you put in rerverse and let go of the stick. Do this with a friend in the car and stand to the side, just in case. :shock: If it is still grounded it will not release the clutch servo. Might need to adjust the points in the stick!