I have just become the owner of a 68 auto stick shift. Unfortunatly the previous owner felt the engine was needing repair, and removed the original 1500 cc engine, and then took it apart. I would like to replace the engine (probably with a 1600). Will an engine from a NON automatic still work in my car? Are there specific fittings from the original engine that will still be found on another (standard) engine ?
Jack,
Unless it's an Autostick 1600 or early 1600 manual, the cam is different. 3 bolt flat cam in the earlier engines Vs 4 bolt dished. Your A/S oil/ATF pump is designed for 3 bolt flat cam engines.
I don't know whether you could just drop the intermediate plate and A/S ATF pump on top of a 4 bolt cam oil pump.
Gland nut is another difference. Save the A/S one.
You can run the 1500 carb on a 1600 with an adapter plate, unless you got a 34 Pict 3 (A/S one!!!) lying around.
Other than that, dropping in a 1600 TP is favoured due to availability & low cost of the brand new Mexi engines.
Many people say the 1500 Single Port is the sweetest of the VW donks, apart from early models (pre 68/69) having issues with the crankcase.
If the 1500 is ALL there, I'd just check it for serviceability/wear and if it's OK, re-assemble it and drop it back in.
You can use 1600 P&C's if the bores/pistons are shot, and even convert to twinport 1600 if you want to splash the cash.
Choice, time & dollars.......
Enjoy
Volkenstein
Thanks...I had a feeling it wouldn't be simple. After finding htis site and reading about the 'autosticks', I think i'll try and get the old engine rebuilt. It's a bit of a risk, because I won't know how good the transmission is until I get the engine running again
Jack,
If the piston/barrels are worn, just drop in 1600 ones. 1500 P & C's are hard to find and pricey. Serrano's had some a month or so ago. Check the heads for cracks between the vlave seats and spark plug holes.
On the subject of your trans, if the torque converter has been taken off or removed from the trans then replace the seal. No if's/buts/maybe's.
There are two types, external spring and internal spring. Check what yours has before ordering.
The bell housing is removable and will give you access to the clutch mechanism and throw out bearing. You have to remove the clutch pressure plate to remove the T-O bearing as it is a pull type. You can then have a look-see at the friction disk. These things hardly wear.
Grab the carrier shaft plate nose and give it a wiggle. It runs in a single row ball bearing (6004 , common bearing). It may wobble slightly but shouldn't go "click". Getting to this to replace it is a PITA.
Have a read of Bookwus' (Mike) post on "Care and feeding of your autostick". Vacuum is critical on these, so make sure your hoses are tip-top.
Enjoy
Volkenstein
Thanks for the encouragment... I hope to actually do this, I will try and keep my efforts and progress posted.
it may get you head scratching at first but you can use any manual engine with the auto stick as far as I know. The key is having all the extra bits that go with it i.e the starter and oil pumpwhich I believe are slightly different.
Stick the pump on the front and you are almsot there. This is exactly what i did as I couldn't find an auto anywhere.
Trouble is, as has been pointed out, it could cost a bit so getting the orig repaired may well work out a lot cheaper.
Make sure you change the seals on the pump, they cost pence but from experience if you overlook this you will endure a lot of pain.
Thanks
Thanks for the tip. At this point, it looks like the old 1500 can be rebuilt, so this information will certainly help.
Jack,
My statements about "H" cases were backwards. H0 and H1 (Early) are less prone to problems than the H5 case. The consensus seems to indicate you should have the H5 cases thoroughly checked for cracks, and keep it bone stock and don't attempt hotrodding. I got this from scanning www.shoptalkforums.com .
Sorry about that
Volkenstein
Thanks. I assume you are talking about the engine block. My engine number is H 0976175, so from what you said I should be careful with this one.
Jack,
Yeah, it's the engine block number. H0 and H1 prefix cases have less problems than H5 prefix cases. I had got it backwards in my initial post.
Still, it's a 30+ year old engine and the more stock you leave it, the longer it will last.
Hows it all going anyway?
Regards
Volkenstein
Hi Jack,
Its a fairly complex piece of equipment, the autostick....
I've had all mine apart... and its best to replace the torque converter oil seal every time its disturbed... CIP1 & others have them...
T/C oil seal part number 001 301 083 up to chassis number >1102385383
has an external spring...
The late model seal is 001 301 083B from 1102385384>
This has an internal spring ... The change was in 1970...
Lee Noonan 68AutoBug Australia
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug