The front page looks alot different for some reason. I need to know if there is an adjustment for the fluid pressure to the torque converter. My friend keeps blowing seals or blowing the fluid past the seal. Dunno. Dennis
Dennis,
The supposed max psi of your ATF pump is 52 odd psi. The book also states that the connection to ATF tank neck (trans return line)is "jetted", thus providing some back pressure.
Another guy on here also didn't smack his Torque Converter seal on hard enough and it blew big time.
Is the Torque Converter neck that goes into the seal scored or anything?
Has he checked for possible blockages where the banjo's/temp switches are?
Regards
Volkenstein
Hi Dennis & Sean,
Yes the ATF pressure is 52.5 PSI
Must be a problem somewhere... as Sean said...
I haven't heard of anyone having this problem.
but sounds like a restriction somewhere...
this is about the only problem I haven't had... :D :D
I replaced all My hoses...
Maybe a hose center has restricted the flow of ATF..
Lee - 68AutoBug -- Australia
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
This is a Trike... My trike is an autostick too, and I have never had a problem, and I got my donor car cheap because that seal was bad, but since I put a new seal in, it's been fire for 35000 miles so far. Bob says that he's put 5 or 6 seals in his so far, they work fine for a while, then suddenly it will start to leak. All his lines are steel braided, so maybe they are too small ID and causing excessive pressure ??? Could that possibly do that. All trans fluid hoses are new, but steel braided...
Dennis,
I know the return hose from the trans is a larger diameter than the feed hose, are his the same size on both sides? I can see how it could possibly cause a problem by backing pressure up against the seal but without measuring psi it's only a guess. Do you know his "-" AN sizes (I'm assuming he's using Earls/Aeroquip/etc)?
Given he's blown 5/6 seals a larger diameter return hose may be a reasonable cost by now!
Regards
Volkenstein aka Sean
Not sure what you mean by the "-" AN thing. If you mean inside diameter of the hoses, no I have no idea, but im sure he knows since he bought them. All I know is that there pretty, and they have fancy ends on them. lol I sent him a link to this thread, so he should be here by tomorrow. Dennis
Hi Dennis & Sean,
Yes, having the pressure and return lines the same size would do it, although if You were replacing the hoses , I would think You'd take the hoses to the shop to have them measured up and to show what ends were on the hoses...
So, naturally the different hose IDs would be seen..
Maybe it could be the hose fittings restricting the flow of ATF too??
I've seen those hoses and fittings on mnay show cars, but I never realised before how costly they are... I took My Son 130kms to buy some of these fittings for the oil lines on His Beetle...
and He already had the remote oil filter assembly, but had to modify them, for the full flow extractor exhaust system He was using...
the fittings alone cost hundreds of Dollars....
good old hydraulic hose will do Me....
Best of luck
Lee -- 68AutoBug -- Australia
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Me too... I just cut all the compression skirts off the stock fittings and installed new hose with hoseclamps, so they can replaced anywhere on the road if need be. Chrome won't get ya home....
Bob says he's having trouble getting on this website. Any advice on that anyone ? I was just thinking... is it possible that he is putting the seals in backwards ??? Seems like I remember something weird about it when I put my seal in... Am I mistaken ??? Does the closed side of the seal face the torque converter like you would think, or do they go in the other way in the autosticks ??? Just in case... Dennis
Hi Dennis,
I've had the problem of logging in twice each time I come here...
An error message comes up first time every time...
The torque converter seal just gets pressed in from this side...
if that makes any sense...
What model gearbox does He have?
as there are two different torque converter oil seals..
from middle of 1970 they changed...
Early seal : 001 301 083 this seal has the spring on the Outside
later seal : 001 301 083B this seal has the spring on the inside
I've never measured the two seals, so i don't know what the difference is
but they must be different seeing the springs are different...
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
The old front page is gone too, it was much better before with all the links like "how it works" and stuff... and people wonder why I hate change. lol
Im not sure what year it is, but he has no "PARK", so it must be old. He's still trying to get signed up, but not having much luck at it...
Guys,
Bjorn has the front page (where you register etc) taken down for maintenance. Taking a long time though!
Dennis,
An older style transmission will have two temp senders and also the drain plug underneath. The seal goes on the trans and it would be pretty hard to put it on any other way :lol: . As I said before, it really has to be seated. VW used a screw down cross bar to seat them.
Other people use a large piece of pipe, a block of wood and a BFH.
Is his torque converter bushing OK? This would cause the TC to wobble/vibrate and might be leading to his seals early demise. Unfortunately, you'd have to pull the TC to check for score marks/condition etc.
Here's a guide on gearbox code prefixes I dug up.
BA 1300 / 1500 4.375 Semi Automatic from 8/68 – 8/70
BC 1300 / 1500 4.375 Semi Automatic from 8/68 – 8/70 with LSD
BE 1600 4.125 Semi Automatic from 8/70 – 8/71
BF 1600 4.125 Semi Automatic from 8/70 – 8/71 with LSD
BG 1600 4.125 Karmann Ghia Semi Automatic from 8/70
BH 1300 4.125 Karmann Ghia Semi Automatic from 8/70 with LSD
BJ 1300 4.375 Semi Automatic from 8/70
BK 1300 4.375 Semi Automatic from 8/70 with LSD
BL 1600 4.125 Semi Auto
BK 1300 4.375 Semi Automatic from 8/70 with LSD
Enjoy
Ctefeh
He has another trans he's puttin in it now. Im beginning to wonder if that old one doesn't have a crack in the case or something... By the way, is there an email address that Bob can contact the owner of the site about gettin signed up ?
Bob keeps describing this seal, but it dont sound like I remember mine. As I remember, my seal just got pressed into a recess, like any other comon seal (ie: flywheel seal), and then I staked in in with a punch so it couldn't pop out, just in case. What he is describing to me doesn't sound familiar at all. Am I going crazy ???
Hi Guys,
I have sent a pic of the Torque converter oil seal to Dennis..
I have tried to post it on here...
but I've forgotten how to do it....
I've been trying... to no avail...
and I can't remember installing My oil seal either...
as You can't really just push them in....
I think You would need something [socket] same size as the outer rim of the seal...
about 62mm ID.... for the 001 301 083 TC seal...
thanks for the transaxle codes Sean...
I'm hoping I have an LSD gearbox.... lol.. :D :D :D
Lee -- 68AutoBug -- Australia --
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
[/img]
What does LSD stand for ???
Hi Dennis,
LSD = Limited Slip Differential...
I have heard that VW offered this option on Many models over the years.
Never ever come across one though...
Having an LSD is nearly as good as 4WD...
as both axles drive... instead of one slipping and revving..
and the other axle doing nothing...
I can get the same effect with My emergency hand brake..
in My driveway with loose stones...
Lee -- 68AutoBug -- Australia --
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
Ok... boy, I wasn't aware that the air cooled's even offered Limited Slip.
Dennis,
Bjorn is user "VWAR", the very first one in the members list.
Enjoy
Volkenstein aka Sean
Is that who we need to contact about gettin Bob registered ? He was signed up, but he gets a message that says he is inactive, and need to contact the administrator, but it doesn't give him any contact info. lol
Dennis,
Yep, that's him.
Regards
Sean aka Volkenstein
Thanks ! We'll let him know about the problem...
Bob put another autostick in his trike, and it leaked about a drop per second, so he's puttin a 4 speed in it. He's at his whitts end. The trans before that one, the converter scraped on the bell housing and the ring gear broke off. He's had real bad luck with the autosticks. I wonder if there isn't a bushing somewhere that was causing all those problems. I dunno, mine has been flawless for a little over 3 years now. Go figure...
I know when I installed my TC seal 3 years ago, when I built my trike, I put yamabond 4 in the metal cup of the seal and on the flange of the trans before tapping it on, and Bob has informed me that he doesn't use any sealer there at all. I think it would only require a scratch to leak since the fit is metal to metal. What are you feeling on that. Dennis
Yes Dennis,
the seal doesn't have any rubber around it so its a metal to metal contact..
As You said, it would take virtually nothing to make it leak..
You would need to use some sort of sealer...
He may have had a scratch or mark where the seal seated..
He certainly had a lot of bad luck....
with the 4 speeds here on trikes, the first gear is locked out...
Lee -- 68AutoBug -- Australia --
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
I agree about the metal to metal leak possibility. I use 1st gear for crawling offroad only. My lockout plate must be missing a tab, because it's hard to make the 1-2 shift without grinding reverse a bit. I have been unable to find an autostick lockout plate, but im use to it now.
Dennis,
How many has he got lying around now and would he be willing to part one out? I want to get a bellhousing off a 68-69, but just the bellhousing nothing else.
Thanks
Volkenstein aka Sean
Well, he does have one that doesn't shift I believe. Why don't you give Bob a call... 916 728-4018
Hello Lee: Can I remove the fittings from my old hydraulic hoses and put
them into new hose secured w/ hose clamps? I'm getting funny looks from the local folks who build hoses. I mentioned banjo clamps to one fellow and he started to back away from me, wide-eyed! (just kidding)
Also: I noticed when I reinstalled the passenger side heat exchanger,
the bottom hose was in the way of the opener lever. Not much room in there! :?
I used a hole saw and drilled out a 2x4 block to fit the seal.
I used this to pound it into place. I hope it worked! Haven't fired it up yet, finishing up the brake work.
Hello Lee: Can I remove the fittings from my old hydraulic hoses and put
them into new hose secured w/ hose clamps? I'm getting funny looks from the local folks who build hoses. I mentioned banjo clamps to one fellow and he started to back away from me, wide-eyed! (just kidding)
Also: I noticed when I reinstalled the passenger side heat exchanger,
the bottom hose was in the way of the opener lever. Not much room in there! :?
Johnr,
Lee is out of town for a while(maybe another week).
Lee's hoses have hydraulic crimp clamps to fix the hose to the original fittings, not hose clamps. I'm not sure what he did at the Banjo end of the lines.
Dunno why they'd look at you funny! You've just got a banjo fitting!
Regards
Sean
We live in the country up here, Sean. Our main industries are fishing,
logging, and "getting by". We make banjo jokes, especially after the movie "Deliverance". Do you know how you can tell if the stage is level?
ans: if the banjo player is drooling out of both sides of his mouth.
They think a banjo fitting is something that goes on a banjo!
Anyhow, I'm checking with my mechanic guru in Coos Bay. He will know what to do. (I hope)
Johnr,
ROTFLMAO :D :D :D
Regards
Volkenstein