Replacement hoses for Autostick vacuum system

[Edghia]

Hello fellow autostickers,

I am encountering what I believe to be a very stubborn vacuum leak problem with my 73 Ghia Autostick.  I have rebuilt the fairly new 34 pic carb, replaced all distributor vacuum lines,set timing at the factory recommended 5 degrees ATDC mark (original dual vacuum distributor), replaced Dual port manifold boots, cleaned heat riser, new plugs, new Pertronix ignition, new wires, new rotor, new cap.  The car will start cold and runs fine until I put it in gear and then it wants to stall.  It will run when warmed up but only with volume screw approximately 8 turns out instead of the 2.5 - 3 recommended as a start, and it also needs to be at about 1200 rpm in neutral, so it will idle at all in gear.  I believe the culprit is a vacuum leak in the lines that go from the manifold to the control valve and then to tank and servo.  Any sources on replacement lines?  I have not had any luck.  Also, when I attach the small vacuum hose that goes from control valve to carb, it is a very harsh quick engagement into gear no matter what I set adjustment screw on top of control valve at.
I have been driving it without the small line and the connections for it plugged with rubber vacuum caps.

Thanks, Ed  :?:

[68AutoBug]

Hi Ed,
I renewed ALL My hoses during the restoration of MY 68 Auto Stick Beetle.
I bought the hose from Hydraulic Hose people.... I used to sell Hydraulic hose in My Job... so  it was easy at the time...  Only Use the best quality hose You can, as most 'normal' auto hose will only last a few years... If You don't mind changing it every 2 - 8 years , depending on quality..
Take Your Vacuum & oil hoses to a Hydraulic hose supplier , or measure the inside diameter and tell them what You need...
You will probably have to take an oil hose & fitting to show them what type of fitting goes on the hose, as virtually every different hose uses different fittings.. according to thickness.. etc..
If Your Large Vacuum hose is leaking... how does the clutch work??
it needs vacuum... and it IS working, so maybe something is wrong in Your Carburetor... or Your distributor.. Idle should be around 900 RPM..
It sounds like Your engine is starving for fuel .... or too much Air in the mixture... Bad for VW engines.. too lean..  
do You have any pollution attachments on Your Carburetor??  
it may be causing the problems??  At the moment My engine will start & idle & rev even though the Accelerator pump on the Carburetor is not working at all..  I have to pull it down & clean it again...
Best of Luck, Let Me know how You went..

Lee ..  -- 68AutoBug -- Australia --

http://au.msnusers.com/My1968restoredBeetle/shoebox.msnw?

[bookwus]

Hiya Ed,

Welcome abaord!

Lee has already given you some good advice on buying hoses and possible trouble spots.  Allow me to address something a bit different in your post.

You mention that "when I attach the small vacuum hose that goes from control valve to carb, it is a very harsh quick engagement into gear no matter what I set adjustment screw on top of control valve at."  Unfortunately that is a classic symptom that your Control Valve is not functioning properly and MAY be shot.  You see, altering the adjustment screw will either "soften" or "sharpen" the shift.  That adjusting your screw has no effect indicates internal problems.

Here is what I would do in your place........Get out your Bentley and turn to page 9-11.  Paying careful attention to Figure 5-1, diassemble your control valve.  Carefully examine the internal parts, especially #29, the diaphragm and #23, the spacer.  Also check over parts 13-19 (the adjustment mechanism) for wear and tear.  All should be clean, complete, and relatively free of wear.  If all your parts look pretty resonable, make sure everything is surgically clean and start to reassemble.  But be sure to take your time and go through Figure 5-2 and set the diaphragm screw adjustment as carefully as you possibly can.  But be very careful with all the parts.  Rebuild kits for the Control Valve are no longer available.

Once all of this is done and the Control Valve reinstalled, you should be able to adjust your shift via the adjusting screw on top of the Control Valve.

Mike

1970 AS Bug