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Installing Torque Converter Seal

Started by bfleck, April 02, 2004, 01:43:29 AM

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bfleck

I have a 69 bug AS.  I have taken the torque converter out and and I am therefore installing a new torque converter seal (this one has the spring on the outside).  The mechanic I worked with (formerly worked for VW) to have my valves done stated that I should "chisel" in the seal to keep it from moving and that this is a standard practice.  However, I can't find mention of this in Bentley, Chilton, Clymer, etc. and have no idea what this really means.

Does everybody reading this just lubricate the inside of the seal and carefully and uniformly press it on with a block without doing anything else?  The metal I slip the seal onto on the bell housing is smooth as can be and so was the orignal seal (no sign of any chisel marks).

P.S. How the heck do you get a torque wrench into the side access hole of the bell housing to torque down the torque converter nuts? :arrow:  :?  It looks like a nightmare just to get in there with the heater boxes, etc. in the way.

bfleck

Never mind about the seal. Turns out I had a 1970 Bentley manual. I just picked up a manual for 1969 and it is every so slightly different on autostick and talks about how to "peen" in the seal.  Glad I waited to get this clarified!  The mechanic swore I would be sorry if I didn't do this.  It pays to look at as many different manuals as possible.

However, I'm till confused about how to get a torque wrench into the bell housing.

68AutoBug

I don't think I peened MY Seal.. I can't really remember...

I just Used 'Loctite' on the torque converter bolts ... and just do them up tight... don't overdo them though, as there isn't much thread in the lugs on the flywheel plate...  I am going to replace those bolts with some Allen headed high tensile bolts.. I have done this before, but the Bolts were about 8mm too long and were hitting the housing...  So I have used the original bolts again... I don't like them, the heads are too easy to damage.
I will be checking My torque converter bolts every week or so when its on the road, just to make sure the bolts do not come loose...[color]

 Lee -- 68AutoBug -- [/b]
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

bookwus

Hiya bfleck,

In your Bentley on page 14 of the Automatic Stick Shift section you'll find Figure 7-2.  The top portion of that diagram gives you the access point in the bellhousing for the torque converter bolts.  An extension on your torque wrench and you should be ready to go.  Torque 'em in at 18 ft lbs and you're ready to roll.  Lee's suggestion about the Loctite sounds like a good one too!
ike

70 AS Bug

68AutoBug


If You can't get the torque wrench near the bolts, just do them up tight with a spanner.. 18ft lbs isn't a lot of torque so don't use a really long spanner or extension etc as You could easily strip the thread... and that IS worse than just doing them up tight with 'Locitie'...  My torque wrench is too large to fit under there.. I usually just do them up with the spanner that undone them...  


Lee ..
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --