Tranny Translplant Q's

[Cobey]

Hey all!  Okay, I am just about ready to swap in the spare trans I have for Edel.  A little background.  The trans came from an early 70 something Ghia that was smashed to bits.  I can't remember the year, but, it was prior to the change of the bumpers, as it still had the same style as my '68 Ghia.  So, here come the questions:

1.) Should the nose cones be different between the two, can I just unbolt and swap them?

2.) The points where the axels connecto to the trans have been exposed since I got it.  It was stored indoors, but is there anything I need to do there before popping it in?

3.) Anything I should inspect/check on the trans before I put it in?  I have a spare seal for behind the torque converter (on the trans side), So I'll replace that since I am already there.

4.) The servo with the spare trans seems to move a lot more than the servo on the original.  What I mean is, I can pull the lever in and out of it a lot further.  Can anything be made of this, is it nothing to worry over, or is the servo on the original trans perhaps the cause of grinding noise in R2?  (Note, the original servo is still connected to the vac tank, so perhaps there is still vac there that is keeping me from moving the arm much?)

5.) I got the flex plate and the torque converter unbolted from one another with no problem, but, anyone have tips in lining them up again during reinstall?

Thanks folks!  Any other tips, hints, or advice are gladly accepted.

[volkenstein]

Cobey,

1. Shouldn't be any different.

2. Run a bolt through all the holes to clean 'em out. Check for rust and  
   clean (if you dare :lol:  That Mo2 grease is filthy stuff...) Check the
   condition of the caps in the centre of the two flanges.

3. I think you'll find you have two heat switches on the '70 box, and only
   one on your '72. That'll mean some wiring funnies......
   It should have an early seal (check though....)
   May as well check the condition of the three trans/engine mounts
   Change the oil? Up to you....

4. Dunno...It may be worth your while seperating the bellhousing's and
   checking the condition of both clutches. And you can dismantle both
   servo's to check the diaphragm. And if you like make a single good
   bellhousing/servo assembly out of both.
   The vac hookup may make a difference to movement, as the air
   travelling back from the servo has a tiny escape hole in the control
   valve. Have a friend push up on the CV diaphragm while you try
   moving the arm again and see if this makes a difference.

5. Should make no difference. From what I've seen the flexplate is
   balanced on it's own. I'll check my spare converter for balance weights
   or signs of drilling. Now may be a good time to check crank end play.


HTH
Volkenstein

[STROHMA]

When I put mine back together the only aligning I had to do was with the clutch pressure plate.
I had two torque converters and flex plates I saw no weights or drill outs for balancing.

On a related question (not meaning to take your thread) I don't have the temperature switch in my transmission.  And I can't find a part number for one. Does anyone know if the trans was plugged at this point or can you remove the temp switch without loosing oil? And does anyone have a spare switch I could maybe get?

[Cobey]

Thanks Volks!

3.) I am pretty sure there are two heat switches on both transmissions, so no worries there I don't think.  The biggest difference I noticed was that the original has a drain plug for the oil and the spare doesn't.  Makes doing the oil change a bit of a pain, and, have to hope RTV will make a good enough seal.  I did note that the spare trans has the late model seal.  (Glad I have both types on hand.)

4.) I hadn't planned on taking the bellhousing off for the clutch inspection, but may consider it now.  I have a servo rebuild kit as well.  I am thinking I will use the servo that is already on the spare trans as, in theory, it is already adjusted properly for the clutch.

5.) I don't understand your response.  The flex plate bolts to the torque converter, yes?  So, somehow, you have to line the two up to pass the bolt through, right?  You hand turn the motor to get the flex plate postion, but how about the TC?  Is there something you can poke at on it to get it to move?



Strohma - Are you sure you don't have a switch?  I noted there are 4 switches total on my spare.  Two are on the driver's side near the front (front of car) and the other two are on the passenger side at the rear, mounting the same way as the starter.

[STROHMA]

Cobey, I was able to turn the motor until the screws lined up didn't take long.

As far as the switches I have the switches drivers side by the nose cone. But on the passenger side by the starter I have two embosses and no switches. Unfortunately I didn't know about these switches when the trans was out now I need to try to get at least one and put it in. I just can't see if its plugged or what size the whole is. CIP1 shows a couple different temp. switches of different sizes.

[Cobey]

Hmmm.  I'll take the switches out of mine to see what is up there and let you know.  

[volkenstein]

Cobey,
         I'm with you now...

Just leave the starter out initially and move the torque converter with a screwdriver or somesuch via the starter ring gear......


Enjoy
Volkenstein

[68AutoBug]

Hi Folks,
Keep forgetting to check on here..
The later model boxes only have one temperature switch, as VW found it didn't need one for the lower gear, only in Drive 2....

You could plug the holes...
Those switches are about the only things I didn't pull apart...
The changeover date for the torque converter oil seals is in 1970
at chassis number 110 2385 384>

I've had My engine in and out probably 6-8 times .....
as I'm not a Mechanic I tend to find problems with things...
I can't remember ever having trouble putting the screws into the flexplate
My starter motor has been in the car for about 10 years...
Maybe I align the torque converter first???
before replacing the engine... but I've never had any trouble...
Must be the only thing.... lol...

cheers

Lee Noonan  

[68AutoBug]

One thing I have never done....
is test the hot ATF switches by shorting them out to ground...
I also have an extra lamp in the dash...
I put an ATF light in My Speedo as it is a KMH speedo from a Non AutoStick beetle....   Now I find the odometer doesn't work....
Speedo works fine....  

Lee Noonan


[/b]

[STROHMA]

I've had to add a light in the dash also. My bug started out as a non Autostick. I'd like to put a temp switch in just for piecs of mind. I keep finding all these little things From putting pieces together everytime I drive it. I'm curious if the tranny fluid is heating up or not.

[Cobey]

Okay, so, if I roll the trans on it's side, and when I roll is back upright I find a  small pool of hypoid oil, that is a bad thing, yes?

[volkenstein]

Cobey,
         No, you shouldn't have a hypoid pool. Unless there is something loose, sounds like you've got bad drive flange seals. Unfortunately they are in the pinion adjusters if it's them.

Where was the pool? I could see the hockey stick seal/bushes leaking easily enough.


Volkenstein

[Cobey]

It's going to be the flange seals.  The pool was right around it, and il was on the round bit (sorry, can't remember the name) that the CV joint bolts too.

Are the flange seals the same as a manual trans?

[volkenstein]

Cobey,
         That's the $64000 question. I don't know as I haven't got that far stripping my own spare trans.
The small plastic caps are the same.
I reckon you should call German Transaxle or Weddle........


Regards
Volkenstein

[Cobey]

Nuts.  Well, worst case, I use the ones from the blown trans.  Not ideal, but...