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Maintenance - Converter oil - Operate the system - Hove it works - Specifications - Trouble shooter - Stall test - Control valve - The nut - Electric - Adj. clutchservo - Adj. gearlever - Exploded view - Funciona mal el Saxomat? - Part numbers - Fix AFT leaking

The nut !

If you have any automatic VW version, either the semi-auto or the fully automatic in the type III, you won't find mutch help in finding a way to break the gland nut while keeping the drive plate from turning. First off, don't try to wedge something between the drive plate and the case, you'll fer sure bend the drive plate, possibly distorting it beyond use. Even a minor distortion can make for some real fun when you try to line up the holes later during motor installation.

VW made a service tool for this procedure, but the chances of finding one are about one in a million, and besides, we've an easier way. Go on out to the junk yard and pick up a used crank shaft fan belt pulley. Drill two holes on the opposite ends at the base of the pulley. Now find a piece of angle iron and drill two identical holes. Using a couple of washers on each side of the pulley for extra support, bolt the deal together and slide the assembly over the crankshaft. Tough nuts may tend to flex the pulley a bit, but we've used this tool doezens of times and it's still hanging in there.

Just in passing, if a nut breaks of the drive plate, you can weld another on easily by securing the drive plate to the removed torque converter for alignment of the new nut. Bolt the drive plate to the torque converter and then use a nut and bolt to secure the section with the missing nut. Tack weld the nut, then remove the drive plate from the torque converter and finish the weld. By the way, if the rivets are loose on the center part of the drive plate, scrap it and go for a good used one.


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