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Ignition tuning best done with a engine cold? WELL WARM - BELOW 50C DEGREES

Started by 68autobug, 06 April 2012, 12:27

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68autobug


I read with interest today, [in a VW repair manual] that You should tune the ignition and carburetor with the engine COLD or below 50C degrees.
I cannot ever remember reading that anywhere, and always thought it was best with a hot engine, seeing that is how the engine is most of the time. Once its started.   So, I've been doing it wrong all these years??
I'll have a look in other manuals to see if there is anything mentioned about a cold engine tune-up...
I know the tappets MUST be adjusted to a COLD engine..  as the gap changes when it gets hot..
I'm sure they weren't talking about the ambient air temperature... lol

WELL I BELIEVE IT SHOULD BE WARM WITH THE CHOKE OFF.. SO, AFTER THE AUTO CHOKETURNS ITSELF OFF.

cheers

LEE in Australia

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

stuartm1962

Always adjust when cold. The metal expands obviously when it is hot and will not give an accurate reading, www.overlandexpress.co.uk

68autobug

so, does that mean You wait for the automatic choke to stop working before You tune the carburetor etc...
and wait for the idle to go to normal...
a bit difficult to adjust the carburetor with the choke operating...

I'll try this with the choke back to idle and see what happens.
I still have a flat spot with My carburetor..
NOT as bad as it was...   but when not paying attention it can stop after stopping and turning a corner etc..
I haven't been adjusting it, just driving it..
goes well on the highway and up hills and accelerates great...
its just the flat spot around 1000-1300 rpm approx..
I'll have to start checking and adjusting...
the distributor was at 7.5 degrees BTDC and was always there when checked..
because of the flat spot in the carby, there is no vacuum for the vacuum advance on the distributor..\
so, once I get over 1300 rpm,  the carby Goes and also gives the vacuum to the distributor to ADVANCE, so, the engine really GOES..
on gravel surfaces, spins the rear wheels...

LEE in Australia


-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

68autobug

Well,
I have been adjusting My carby when cold [also adjusting the choke] and when the choke is good, the idle isn't when hot... although it was very close last week and started very easy..
I will turn the choke off and see how I go with the engine cold... 15C temp so its not too cold..
it seems My vacuum advance isn't working??? as with it disconnected and port blocked off, maximum advance is about 32 degrees BTDC .. connect it up and its still 32 degrees..  it used to go to 42 degrees when I first got it.. with the vacuum working.. distributor moves freely when I suck on the vacuum hose/pipe.... port in carby is clear..
I no longer have any flatspots..  I found My large wiring loom from the alternator [which goes to the Left Hand side of the engine bay instead of the RHS} was jammed on the accelerator pump ... lol  .. Car is going OK.. slightly lower in speed going up a large hill on the local highway.. 90 KMH instead of 100 KMH.. at bottom of the hill the speed limit is 80 KMH..

cheers

LEE

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug