AS problem-beginner need your help

KG · 15 July 2008, 11:02

OK. Is it that?
What can I espect after this, can I eliminate a starting jumping?
I must say, I am very nicely surprised with yours carefully and facility. Where are you from people?
If I can help you at any sense I will be happy.

volkenstein · 15 July 2008, 11:51

KG,
Exactly right.
Just make sure someone hasn't stuck a screw or silicone into the brass pipe before you move the hose. Once you move the hose block off the pipe that is now left "open".

Quotecan I eliminate a starting jumping

If you put the car into gear and it jumps or you feel a "thump" then yes. This will make it smoother.

I am from Australia.

PS. Very nice car you have!

HTH
Volkenstein (Sean)

Bookwus · 15 July 2008, 17:53

Hiya KG,

As Sean has already said, moving that hose should correct your problem.

Please post a picture of your carburetor after you move the hose.

I'm from the USA.

buggerfly · 21 July 2008, 21:47

Quote from: Bookwus on 03 July 2008, 20:06

Most of us start out our cars in Low. We then shift into First at about 25mph and we shift into Second at about 40mph.

Mike,

I was told by a friend who has an AS to start in "1", is that wrong ? I was also told starting in "L" was less fuel effecient. I think I read that in an AS brochure I have as well. Which method is better, starting in "1" or "L"?

Bookwus · 22 July 2008, 06:23

Hiya Stephanie,

Good question and there are a couple of factors that directly influence my answer.

1. You mentioned that an AS brochure recommended starting in First. What one needs to remember is that the AutoStick was developed and marketed to cater to a specific market in the late sixties. VW recognized that there was a potential market for those who did not want to drive a manual transmission equipped Bug but still wanted a Bug. This market consisted of younger drivers and women. Consequently VW made much of the fact that the car COULD be placed in First and driven around town all day - just like a true automatic. This was not necessarily the best way to drive the car, but it was a very good way for VW to market and sell the car.

2. If you speak to any VW mechanic (or hobbyist for that matter) they will tell you to a man that one of the worst things you can do to any VW engine is to lug it. Basically lugging an engine is driving it in a gear too high and asking the engine to deliver torque out of its power band. Very hard on the engine internals and clutch components. There has been discussion here on VWAR that driving in one gear (First) can take a toll on the TC seal.

Now the torque converter in an AutoStick will take care of a lot of the "lugging factor" but not all of it. It's still important to the mechanical well-being of the car to match up the gear to the requirements of the drive.

3. Truthfully, there has been no specific proof either way as to whether driving in one gear or running through the gears is better for the car mechanically. However, it certainly seems that running through the gears allows for a better match of the driving conditions to the engine's power band (avoiding lugging) and many of us prefer the improvement in performance that accompanies running through the gears.

buggerfly · 30 July 2008, 05:50

Mike,

I do shift gears from "1" to "2" around 25 or 30 mph, and that's in town driving, so I don't stay in one gear the whole time and of course definately not on the freeways here, you'll get run over if you go that slow. The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in. I will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop?

Stephanie

Bookwus · 30 July 2008, 06:42

Hiya Stephanie,

Quote from: buggerfly on 30 July 2008, 05:50 .........The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in........

Hmmmm? I take it you are referring to driving a manual transmission. Or am I misunderstanding something there?

QuoteI will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop?

Stephanie, you need to do what's right for you. If you are comfortable driving the car and shifting from First to Second (not using Low) the car is not going to fall apart. While there has been speculation that it might be better for the car to run through the complete range, it is only speculation. No hard facts to back that up, just some random observations. But give shifting from Low to First to Second a try. Heck! You might like it.

68autobug · 30 July 2008, 10:24

Hi Stephanie,
its OK to start off in any of the Gears..
I like to use LOW when at traffic lights [in larger towns]
its great to beat the other cars off the line.. lol
whether it uses more Gas.....maybe

but starting in Drive 1 You need to rev the motor to get the torque converter going..
and really rev the engine to get going in Drive 2..

so I'm not sure which gear will save your Gas
excepting Drive 2 when out on the highway.... lol

I believe you should use Drive 1 and drive 2
and Low now and then...
I find Low is a bit too high geared when parking...
Drive 1 is much better... but I normally use Low....lol

cheers

LEE

KG · 04 August 2008, 13:02

Hi , me again.I was moving that hose but I have a same problem only a minor jumping at starting.
Again, my car accelerate in low or in 1. so slow.
Can you suggest me how can I change my AS oil ond which oil is good for me?

Bookwus · 04 August 2008, 17:07

Hiya KG,

Quote from: KG on 04 August 2008, 13:02
Hi , me again.I was moving that hose but I have a same problem only a minor jumping at starting.

Your small vacuum hose needs to be hooked up just as in this picture............

QuoteAgain, my car accelerate in low or in 1. so slow.

It sounds like you need to do a stall test to determine if your torque converter is working properly.

QuoteCan you suggest me how can I change my AS oil ond which oil is good for me?

Sean (Volkenstein) has an excellent way of removing/flushing the ATF (AS oil). I'll let him explain that for you. Your ATF should be anything with a DEXRON name. For example, Dexron, Dexron 1, Dexron 2, etc. Just look for Dexron.

volkenstein · 05 August 2008, 05:58

Hi KG,
Along with what has been suggested already, look at the hoses/pipes going to and from the A-S Oil Pump. They should not be dented and stuff. If you have a pressure guage the ATF pressure should be around 52 psi maximum.

Castrol is a fairly universal oil, so use any marked Dexron. Here is a little procedure I wrote :

QuoteATF. Better with two people. 2 gallons of DEXRON 111 ATF + 1 bottle (or 10 litres, take your pick).

If it is the ATF that is discoloured, best thing to do is get the tank drained first and then flush the system. First things first. Clean the bottom banjo bolt and surrounding area. Then do the same at the hose connection on the filler neck.
So, place a large container under the tank bottom then undo the banjo bolt. It's advisable to give the spanner some sharp blows to "crack" it loose. Watch for the copper washers! Undo all the way and let all the ATF drain out. Refit the banjo bolt and washers (in sequence!) and give it 25ft/lb torque.
Next, undo the return line from the filler tank neck. Place a length of spare garden hose over it and run it into a bucket. Fill the ATF tank with fresh oil. Have a friend start the car and let it idle. Keep adding ATF to the tank as the old rubbish pumps out. Check the colour of oil coming out of the hose. Keep cycling new oil into the tank until the oil coming out of the hose is a beautiful light cherry red. Stop the engine. Check the ATF oil level with the dipstick. Say...1/2" below the top mark is good. Add or drain as necessary. Take the garden hose off and refit the hose to the filler neck. A firm wrist twist to tighten it.

Your car's ATF tank is in the engine compartment, not underneath the fender like on Beetles.

Try all this before you move on to the stall-speed test.

HTH
Sean

buggerfly · 08 October 2008, 06:44

Quote from: Bookwus on 30 July 2008, 06:42
Hiya Stephanie,

Quote from: buggerfly on 30 July 2008, 05:50 .........The shifting is not the issue with me, its the clutch, I have a bad knee and it can't take the extra strain on it constantly pushing the clutch in........

QuoteHmmmm? I take it you are referring to driving a manual transmission. Or am I misunderstanding something there?

Yes Mike, you are right, that is why I chose the auto stick, manual transmissions just aren't possible for me anymore.

QuoteI will try starting out in "L" and see how it does or if it seems to make a difference, if not will starting in "1" be alright since I am changing gears and down shifting when I slow to a stop?

Stephanie, you need to do what's right for you. If you are comfortable driving the car and shifting from First to Second (not using Low) the car is not going to fall apart. While there has been speculation that it might be better for the car to run through the complete range, it is only speculation. No hard facts to back that up, just some random observations. But give shifting from Low to First to Second a try. Heck! You might like it.

I have been driving the car starting in "L" and shifting to "1" and then "2" and down shifting when I slow down or stop and its a lot like driving the manual transmissions just no clutch. Seems to pick up speed better for take off, as Lee said. Thanks for helpingme with this guys.

68autobug · 08 October 2008, 16:35

Hi Stephanie
what I have been doing lately
is starting out in Low gear then shifting to Drive 2

and this works very well.... and probably saves gas when i'm in Drive 2

All the VW manuals say - Only Use Low gear when driving up a steep driveway..

I've only found one book that says its better to use the three gears...

When you think that a person in a manual beetle has to use 1st 2nd 3rd etc
to get the car moving...
I don't think We would use much more gas by using Low gear...
as it doesn't hurt to rev a car engine a bit and we are accelerating and keeping up with
or overtaking [lol] the other cars....

Once you get used to using LOW gear, its seems very slow in drive 1 ...

cheers

LEE

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

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joeypaul · 04 February 2018, 14:56

Hi All,

I am very new to forums so forgive me if I post things wrong. Reading this thread, it would completely solve my problem if I could see the pictures posted. Unfortunately they come up all pixelated. I too have a H30/31 PICT carb and a 69 autostick with a 009 centrifugal-only advance. I suspect the AS control valve is plugged into the wrong carb vacuum port (it has four ports in all). Any help with the correct port on the H30/31 PICT carb would be appreciated.

thanks in advance for your help.

68autobug · 06 February 2018, 13:07

Hi
I cannot find a pic of My H30/31 carburetor but I did find a note that I changed to the lower vacuum port.
I'm not using that carburetor at the moment. I tried for many months to get it to run correctly, if I got it to idle correct it wouldn't run correctly, and if I got it to run correctly it would stop every time I stopped the car. At present I am using a BRasillian WEBER carburetor that was made to fit VW engines. I happened to find a new one. I haven't been able to find any information on these Brasil WEBER carburetors as all information is in Portuguese.... No one seems to know anything about them. I did read that a H30/31 can come with the incorrect jets fitted from the factory. I haven't pulled Mine apart as yet. I was also told they were made in a factory not a laboratory so there can be lots of shavings inside the carburetor also... I have to find My H30/H31 to check it out and take pics..

Lee in Australia