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Proper Shift Lever Alignment (Long)

Started by Bookwus, 30 August 2009, 04:21

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Bookwus

Hiya Dave,

Quote from: hercdriver on 03 September 2009, 03:01
Add a few pics to make this thread complete.

That is a good idea!

Inasmuch as the whole project is in and out of the "pieces" stage I'll get the camera out tomorrow and start clicking off a few.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug

Quote from: Bookwus on 02 September 2009, 21:57
Hiya Lee
Truthfully Lee, after taking a close look at it I was pretty sure that nothing was wrong with the shift rod hanger.  However, in light of recent events it appears that I was wrong.

The car now shifts into Low very cleanly.  It also downshifts from First to Low very cleanly.   I'm really quite pleased with the feel of the action and the pattern.  

So, why was the shift rod hanger out of its proper place?  I'm guessing that it was just a matter of wear over 40 years.  To be sure it is well made and strong, but 40 years of wrestling the shift lever around can take its toll.

Guess what!  I think you may have the same problem.  During my tweaking I did get gear grinding from time to time.  That went away when I made adjustments to the shift lever and it relation to the shift stop plate and the shift rod.  You should be able to upshift through all the forward gears and downshift through the gears without having to depress the shift lever.

Next up for me..............pulling the shift rod and making sure the shift rod cup has not been depressed "out of level" with the rest of the rod.  While I've got it out I'll also be installing a new shift rod bushing.  I'm thinking all this prying around on the shift rod cannot have been too good for the bushing.


Hi Mike,
I have never changed the shifter bush although I do have a couple of them..
I do have to work on My shifter...  the locknut has been loose for sometime..
I also have a spare that I have been going to pull apart...

as far as i know I only push down to engage reverse and it hasn't crunched
for a while...  but going from Drive 2 to Drive 1 usually does crunch...

I really should spend a few hours on My shifter and work out the problem...
I don't think I will take the shifter rod out though..
although that may be the easy way to replace the bush.... ;D ;D ;D

cheers

LEE

[/color]
-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Bookwus

#17
Hiya Lee,

Quote from: 68autobug on 03 September 2009, 10:28

Hi Mike,
I have never changed the shifter bush although I do have a couple of them..

You might be very surprised at howe much difference changing out that shift bushing can have.  I looked at my shift bushing and I had just a bit of up-down wiggle in the shift rod.  I thought I was good to go.  But, as you know I pulled the shift rod and I determined that I'd change out the shift bushing because I had exerted some force on it when moving the position of the shift rod previously.  Good thing that I did.  That "good" shift bushing turned out to be split at the point where it engages the shift rod holder.  I'll post up pictures a bit later.  The new shift bushing holds the shift rod VERY firmly but allows for movement.  I'm thinking that this will be a definite improvement.  I'll know when I test drive later on this afternoon.

Quote.......I really should spend a few hours on My shifter and work out the problem...
I don't think I will take the shifter rod out though..
although that may be the easy way to replace the bush....
[/color]

It does take some tweaking around, there is no getting around that.  But Lee, removing the shift rod is easy.  It took me about 15 minutes to get it out of the car.  The old bush just pulls out with a pair of needlenose pliers and the new bush snaps in with finger pressure after a little grease on the outside.  The shift rod take a little persuasion to get into the new bushing but I managed that easily with a pair of large needlenose pliers down through the shift lever hole.  All in all, quite an easy job.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug



My gearshifter rattles when taking off just for a few seconds... 
it took Me a while to find where the rattle was coming from...
If I put My knee against the gearshifter the rattle stops...

so, maybe that means a worn out nylon bushing...??

LEE





-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

cjmck422

#19
Hey everyone, not to rehash an old post, but I'm having an almost identical problem.  All gear selections seem normal except for the fact that I have to push down the shift lever to shift into low (not 1st).  This post has mentioned about tweaking the shift rod with a pry bar, wouldn't this theoretically alter the geometry of the shift setup, making the cup on the end of the rod swing in an arc, as opposed to rotating on the shift rod's axis.  If the cup on the end of the shift rod is hitting the lockout plate, wouldn't shimming up the lockout plate be more prudent to solve this problem?  Just wondering, cuz I like to do things in unconventional ways. ;D
Chris

1971 Super Beetle

Bookwus

Hiya cjmck,

Quote from: cjmck422 on 24 August 2010, 01:55
.......This post has mentioned about tweaking the shift rod with a pry bar, wouldn't this theoretically alter the geometry of the shift setup, making the cup on the end of the rod swing in an arc, as opposed to rotating on the shift rod's axis........

Well, the answer is yes and no.

Yes it will alter the geometry of the shift set-up.  But that was what I was after anyway.  You see, I was going on the assumption that 40 years of prior use had moved the shift rod hanger out of it's original position.  Using the prybar was simply moving it back into OEM position.

And since I was applying the prybar in an effort to move the hanger laterally there should not be arcing in the movement of the shift cup.

FWIW.........  a year later............  the shift action is still smooth.  I do have to depress the shift knob to downshift from Second to First.  And the location for Reverse seems a bit off, but otherwise all seems fine.  I have been told that my problem is likely with the ball in the nosecone.  Next time I pull my engine I'll take a looksee at that guy.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug

Well
My gearshifter no longer rattles...??

I haven't actually seen the shifter rod bush holder Mike
do You think it can actually get moved downwards???

LEE




Quote from: 68autobug on 07 October 2009, 15:20


My gearshifter rattles when taking off just for a few seconds... 
it took Me a while to find where the rattle was coming from...
If I put My knee against the gearshifter the rattle stops...

so, maybe that means a worn out nylon bushing...??

LEE






-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

Bookwus

Hiya Lee,

Quote from: 68autobug on 24 August 2010, 05:57
..........I haven't actually seen the shifter rod bush holder Mike
do You think it can actually get moved downwards???........

Probably not.  Unless the shift rod hanger were breaking away from the top of the tunnel.

However, the hole in the shift rod hanger could easily get elongated (thus dropping the shift rod down a bit) if the shift rod bushing were worn out.

And the shift rod hanger could be moved out of correct lateral alignment (I think this was my case) from wear over the years.
Mike

1970 AS Bug

cjmck422

Hey Mike, thanks for the clarification, here I thought you were trying to correct for some bit of torsional "twist" that may have developed in the shift rod, not considering the fact that the hanger itself may have become distorted as well.  I'll definitely keep this in mind when I attempt to correct my shifting over the next few weeks, as I'm also replacing the torque converter seal (it seems the ATF is coming out, almost as fast as I'm putting it in) :(

Well, thanks again.
Chris

1971 Super Beetle

Bookwus

Hiya cjmck,

Hey!  Be sure to let us know how you make out on the shift rod and the TC seal!
Mike

1970 AS Bug

68autobug

Quote from: Bookwus on 24 August 2010, 17:26
Hiya Lee,

Quote from: 68autobug on 24 August 2010, 05:57
..........I haven't actually seen the shifter rod bush holder Mike
do You think it can actually get moved downwards???........

Probably not.  Unless the shift rod hanger were breaking away from the top of the tunnel.

However, the hole in the shift rod hanger could easily get elongated (thus dropping the shift rod down a bit) if the shift rod bushing were worn out.

And the shift rod hanger could be moved out of correct lateral alignment (I think this was my case) from wear over the years.


I was reading about the shift rod hanger on manual beetles could wear away after the bush wore out..
I haven't checked mine...   I will have to one day..lol

also read where they should greased every year or so,... lol

LEE

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler

http://photobucket.com/68autobug

cjmck422

Hey Mike, just a quick update.  Got the engine pulled out, and removed the old seal, the rubber was completely petrified and very sloppy fit on t/c hub.  Ordered up a new seal, should arrive in a few days.  As for the shift rod bushing is currently MIA, I'm replacing that as well, however, there appears to be a crumple zone ahead of the frame head, is this part removable, or do I have to lift the body to gain access to the shift rod opening?
Chris

1971 Super Beetle

Bookwus

Hiya cjmck,

There are three cover plates to remove in order to extract the shift rod from the front of the car.

In order from front to rear they are..........

1.  Round cover plate at the bottom front of the spare tire well

2.  More or less round cover plate at the rear of the spare tire well

3.  Oval cover plate on the framehead
Mike

1970 AS Bug

cjmck422

Hey Mike, sorry, I forgot to mention this is a '71 Super.  Isn't the process a little different, or pretty much the same?  I've got the round cover in the spare tire well, but that only covers the top side of the accordion-like metal support

???
Chris

1971 Super Beetle

Bookwus

Hiya Chris,

Jeez!  Truth be told, I am not a SuperBeetle kinda guy.  Not that I don't like them; I just don't have a buncha experience with 'em.

But I'm thinking that the shift rod removal process ought to be pretty much the same.  One still has to remove it from the front of the center tunnel (that means through the framehead and that #3 oval plate.  You seem to have found cover #2.  No cover #1?
Mike

1970 AS Bug