'68 Semi Auto

Started by FlamingChris, 21 September 2008, 14:48

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Converted for imperial. The end float i've got is 0.0358".

So i then worked out i'd need two 0.0118" shims and a 0.0094" Just to make sure i put in two 0.0118" shims and checked the end float but i got a maximum of 0.0023". So i took the flexplate off and made sure it was clean in there and put in a 0.0118" and the 0.0094" shim and then checked the end float, this time no matter how much i pushed and pulled the bottom pulley i couldn't get a reading at all.....I'm stumped! Any ideas....


Hiya Chris,

OK now.  Even with that conversion I have to do a little rounding off to this scenario for my blockhead...............

You have an unshimmed endplay of .036.  You are proposing to place two .012 shims and a .010 shim in place.  That will give you a total shim of .034 and should leave endplay of .002.

Now, disregarding the fact that a final endplay of .002 is too narrow (you may have to rethink your choice of shims) you should still have a working endplay of .002 with these shims in place IF.......

1.  You measured your unshimmed endplay correctly at the start of all this


2.  When measuring your shimmed endplay you have the crank tapped all the way out to the front.

About number 1............  when I measure unshimmed endplay I do it a minimum of six times.  I measure it three times when the crank is just assembled and still out of the case.  Then I measure it three times when the crank is in the case.  All of these measurements should be dead-on the same.

About number 2...........  I have a 2 lb sledge I use to tap the crank on the pulley end.  The operative word here is tap.  I want to make sure that there is some muscle behind that tap (that's the reason for the 2 pounder) but it's a very light tap, tap to make sure that the crank is at the very end of it's lateral throw without bruising the bearings or the case.   


1970 AS Bug


       The ubiquitous "O-ring Pinch" maybe? Mike, would you recommend fishing it out to measure base (no shims) endplay, fitting shims and re-measuring and then lastly whip both the oil seal and O-ring in to place before buttoning it all up?

'71 RHD A-S Super - "Klaus"


Hiya Sean,

Excellent point Sean.  That sounds like a capital idea to me. 


1970 AS Bug


Well it has been a long time since i gave you lot an update...

After my frustrations at tying to set the end float i finally decided it was time to open the case up once more to find out what the issue was expecting there to be some dirt or sealant in the way. Unfortunately it wasn't any of these, it would appear that the second crank i had bought (new brazillian one) wasn't really up to spec like the first one i had purchased, i measured the available space with the crank out of the engine and found that it would be impossible to ever have enough.  :(

After rooting through the endless boxes of parts i managed to find my original crank that had come out of the engine that had dropped a valve and i have sent that off to be machined, hopefully i'll have better luck when i get it back.

With regards to the remainder of the bug not much has happened, a few windows have gone in but work has now stopped for a while as i'm moving house to somewhere with a little more space. Hopefully once everythings sorted my updates should be a little more frequent!


Good evening chaps,

Well it's been some time but finally it's back on the road....well back on the road for short periods of time. Anywho before I move onto issues with it's driving I've taken some obligatory engine bay shots:

Now, when driving it back from the MOT (road safety test for you non-Brits) I had a few issues. I was quite happily cruising along at 60mph when it started to lose power and started back-firing if I put my foot down to speed up, eventually it slowed right down and finally cut-out. It wouldn't start immediately but after 15 minutes it would chug back into life again before doing exactly the same thing 10 minutes later. As you could imagine this made the quick hour journey last about four hours but eventually I made it home. I then took it out the next day where I didn't suffer the power loss but it did stall and not start again for a good 20 minutes. Any ideas?


I think it's something like the sounds of this:



Hi Chris
Well, what You are describing could be no fuel or no spark..
I would go first to the electrics...
it can be the condensor on the side of the distributor.. these used to be replaced and were  a throw away item back in the 50-60-70s.. along with the rotor button inside the distributor and the cap.. these were all replaced along with spark plugs/points etc..
Condensors can be very intermittant due to heat or just voltage..
I always carry a couple of spares although I don't need them now I have a pertronix kit in MY SVDA aircooled.net distributor.
You can check the fuel by taking the air filter off and pushing the cable down while looking down the carby throat.. You should see it spraying out..
another thing I just thought of... the electromagnetic fuel cutoff which sticks out from the carburetor with a wire pushed onto its terminal.. a loose wire can stop the car instantly..


LEE  Yes We have the MOT REGO check in the state of NSW in Australia every year.
        Most other states in Australia don't have an annual check at all...

-- Helping keep Autostick beetles on the road --
   -1968 Silver metallic 1600 single port Beetle - with BOSCH  SVDA and new BROSOL H30/31 carburetor with GENIE Extractor exhaust system with a quiet thunderbird muffler