Any spare torque converters...and hard shifting.

[jeff_wee]

i need a new torque converter, does anyone have one if so how much would u let that go for, i wanna put a new one in and ya.

also when i shift into low(1st) and reverse my car hits hard. but when i shift into 2nd and 3rd its smooooth! so is their something wrong or is it normal?

[Cobey]

I have a spare TC if you need one (PM me).  As for the shifting, good Q.  Mine does this now with the new trans installed, and my friend's Ghia as well.  I wasn't going to ask until I put all the original AS parts back in and had a chance to adjust the control valve a bit more.

[NOVA Ghia Owner]

My car used to slam into reverse when I first bought it.  I switched the two vaccuum hoses off the carb so that vaccuum is drawn from above the butterfly.  That fixed the problem.

Too much vacuum will cause the clutch to engage too quickly causing the slamming into gear.

[jeff_wee]

ya? well what exactly is the butterfly haha?

[Cobey]

Pop the air cleaner off your carb.  Look down the carb's throat.  See that metal disc, like the one the choke operates?  That is the butterfly.

Now, if you hunt down the topic I started about original carbs, you'll see that the autostick originally pulled vac from a port on the right side of the carb, as opposed to the one on the left which also is used for the distributor.  That extra port is really just a hole all the way through the body of the carb and into the throat (venturi), and is just above the butterfly.

Your carb doesn't have that port?  Well, that is not surprising as most of them don't.  So, you have a couple of options.  1.) leave it on the left port and turn the control valve down as slow as you can stand.  2.) find an original autostick carb, or at least one that has that port.  3.)  Get a 2mm drill bit and drill a hole in the carb body where the port should be (it's very obvious), then bang in a brass tube for the vac hose to connect to.

Note: I haven't found anyone that has done #3.  I'm planning on it shortly, though I picked up an autostick carb a couple months back.

[jeff_wee]

i looked and their are no hoses connected to my carb, the closes hose is connected to the intake below the carb.

[volkenstein]

Jeff,
    You need one hose minimum. Do you know what carby you have?
If you don't, lift the engine decklid and look on the carby bowl on the left hand side (close to the shroud). It'll say SOLEX PICT something.

What model it is will determine how many vacuum connections the carby has.

Have a look at the thread a little bit down from here where BTL-069 is the last poster. There's a photo in there of what the connections should be on a 34 Pict 3. Pict 30's are different.

You have to run one from the vacuum connection that is above the throttle plate, over to the brass spigot on your control valve.

If you can, take a pic of your engine (with the distibutor, carb and control valve in the shot) and post up here and we'll see how we can help you.

Volkenstein

[jeff_wee]

ya im pretty sure its a solex, but this is a picture of my engine and it will give u guys a pretty good idea of wat i have to work with tomorrow im gonna take more pictures.

[volkenstein]

Jeff,
    My guess is a H30/31, as you have a single port and no adapter.

Now, you have a vacuum hose on the right hand side of your carb and it runs to the brass spigot on the control valve. This is a major no-no.

Pull the cap off the right hand centre vacuum fitting on your carb and make sure a piece of fine wire (mig wire or garbage bag tie wire) will go through into you carby and then put the hose there. Then put the cap on the fitting you just unhooked. Make sure it's all sealed ok.

Also...looking at your control valve....that screw (?) on top looks like it's been wound out or someone has stuck god knows what in there!
What is there on top as I can't make it out....close up shot?

Pretty please :lol:  

The base setting with the standard screw is to have two full threads exposed from the top of the cap and the entire adjusting screw is only 20mm long.


By the way....nice looking car/donk etc etc!!


Enjoy
Volkenstein

[68AutoBug]

Hi everyone,
Yes My car also clunks into reverse and low...
I have too much vacuum from My weber carburetor...

Nice to see another colored engine bay...
My inlet manifold etc was also yellow until last week...
and that adjustment screw.... is very long....
I think they did have a plastic cap on them originally, but that looks like a bolt..
I sent You a U2U Sean on AVD...

Jeff wee, what are Your hoses made from, or covered with?
it looks like metal, but I don't think it is...

Lee    -- 68AutoBug -- Australia
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

[68AutoBug]

Jeff Wee,
I was trying to guess what model Your car was...
then I remembered it must be a 1968-69 model, with early rear fenders and bumpers....
I'd show You My multicolored engine bay, but I'm afraid I still can't post on here....
Volkenstein did tell Me...
I'll have to look it up again...
When I download pics from My camera it asks if I want to send the pic to a blog or website etc...
I'll just have to try.... them all ... lol...

My vacuum line to the carburetor has a small fuel filter in the line with a very small hole drilled in the filter to try to stop some of the vacuum...
It works OK....
a bit thumpy in Low & reverse...

Lee Noonan -- 68AutoBug --

[jeff_wee]

i have a 1968 bug but the fenders are 62 me and my grandpa put them on, i like them more, haha dont u? but yeah ill take some pictures later and that screw might look diffrent now that picture was before i fixed my transmission, i totally got the tranny rebuilt. so ill take a few pictures for u but as for the hoses they are made from rubber with a protective metalish cover so i would thinjk they dont touch anything and melt or ect.

[jeff_wee]

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[Cobey]

Okay, the thin hose on the control valve (pic 4) need to go to the right port on the rear of the carb (pic 3) instead of the bottom port.

[jeff_wee]

ok ill try and get that