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Clicking/grinding noise from rear of car

Started by Schillnuts, December 06, 2006, 04:32:07 PM

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Schillnuts

Okie dokie,

Here is my current enigma: a clicking/grinding noise coming from the rear of my car.  The sound occurs at different mph ranges (dont have a tach installed - yet).  I noticed that the noise does not occur while in neutral, only when the car is under load (in gear and in motion).  At times the noise goes away and does not return for a while.  I am wondering if this problem could be related to the wheel bearings, the CV joints (all are original as far as I know and my documents show), or as I just read in a post something in the bell housing.  I recently had the clutch servo replaced and am wondering if perhaps something was not tightened enough.  Anywho, my car is in storage until April (or until there is an absolutely gorgeous day here in upstate NY - which rarely occurs in the winter) so I am unable to further diagnose the problem at hand.  I am sure that I will remember something else after I post this and will also check out previous posts regarding this problem as well.

Jason
**____***
**/ ____ \**
*(0\ U|U /0)*
    freak

bookwus

Hiya Schill,

Glad to see you fixed up your grinding noise while shifting.  As I mentioned in a previous post, the really neat thing about the AutoStick is that one rarely has to crack the transmission to fix these kinds of problems.

About the noise coming from the rear end.  Of course it would help a great deal if you could localize that noise even more.  Left side? Right side?  Does the noise seem to be "rotational" in nature?

But even with the info you have provided, it's likely to be your CVs.  A clunking or clicking type of noise, under load, from the rear end is usually a CV.  Grinding could also well be a CV, but could also be the brakes.  Does pressing the brake pedal change the sound (even pressing softly so as not to slow the car down too much)?  Any more info might help to narrow down the possibilities.  If, in fact, it is your CVs, then replacement is likely to be your best option.  Not difficult, semi-costly (CV joints run around $45 each), but very messy.

Your half shafts (a CV on each end) are attached to the transaxle and the rear axle stub with six socket head screws at each location.  The socket head screws are either allen head or 12 pointers - check to be absolutely sure which you have.  They need to be torqued in at 25 lbs.  Also equally important - each set of two screws holds a double place washer in place.  That washer (3 per each end of the half shaft) needs to be there.
ike

70 AS Bug

68AutoBug


Hi,
I've never heard a CV joint noise in a VW, only in front wheel drive vehicles... when it was a clicking noise turning a corner...
The CV Joints May be re useable... they will need to be removed and disassembled with all the old grease removed with Kerosene or petrol etc.
Then check to see if any have grooves or pits where the balls touch the inner and outer housings..  There will be marks where all the balls have been rubbing, and this is OK..  but deep grooves etc make the CV Joint worn out...  and would need replacing...
I had 14 used CV Joints that I cleaned and checked, and I did get Eight re useable ones out of that lot... for My Beetle and My Sons beetle.
I packed them fully with Lithium based Moly grease...
that IS the important part - Only use this grease - and pack the CVs full of it, then put more into the rubber boots too...
and You will probably never have to touch those again...
That grease is that good...  naturally, if a CV Joint was actually more worn that it looked it may give trouble sometime in the future...
but Lithium based Moly grease will virtually stop the CVs from wearing..
Use disposible gloves when using grease and replace them regularly...
also You will need a roll or 2 or paper hand towels...
and use old clothes as this grease is hard to get out of clothes too...

Whether You replace the CV Joints or reuse the old ones, check the cv joint bolts a few times afterwards, as they can come loose...
My Son, didn't like the multi splined headed bolts so he bought Hi tensile allen headed bolts to replace them... My beetle has half allen heads and half multi splined headed bolts... so I carry both tools...
I reused the small odd looking washers on My CV joints but I've been told they were later discarded and not needed... but I still use them...
I see CIP1 [I think] has a CV Joint kit with new bolts etc..
CV Joints are over $100Aus here, hence the reason to reuse if possible..
Also check the emergency brake arm pin in the rear brakes as the circlip can come off - I've also heard of the pin breaking off ...

Best of Luck

Lee Noonan - 68AutoBug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug

ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

bookwus

Hiya Lee,

"I reused the small odd looking washers on My CV joints but I've been told they were later discarded and not needed... but I still use them..."

I think you may have the double placed washers (VERY important for keeping everything together down there in CV-land) and the concave or dished washer located on the halfshaft next to the CVs mixed up.  That concave washer was installed by the factory.  However, in servicing the CVs out in the field, VW found that it was NOT necessary to include the concave washer when reassembling the CVs.  In point of fact, VW recommends eliminating that concave washer in a service bulletin.

You will, however, find that Bentley still lists the CV reassembly procedure WITH the concave washer included.  Oh well, whatever floats your boat, I guess.
ike

70 AS Bug

68AutoBug

Hi Mike,
No, these small odd shaped washers go under the head of each CV Joint bolt, on top of the dual bolt plates...
they have tiny grooves all over them...
they just fit under the head of the bolts....
I'm presuming they are some special kind of lock washer??
I've never seen any washers like these anywhere...
I was told that these don't have to be used...
but maybe it was the washer You mentioned...

I haven't seen these small washers in any manual...
Maybe they were only used in 1968>70??

cheers

Lee Noonan - 68AutoBug - Australia -

http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

68AutoBug

Hi again Mike,
I think I may have used the concave washers too...
can't really remember...
I know i had some that had the concave washers as they were a pain,
as they made it hard to fit the cv joint onto the axle with the Circlip...
Maybe it was on a Mitsubishi vehicle...
I'll try to remember next time...
and look at the Bentley manual as My other manuals still say to use the concave washers...

cheers Mike

Lee Noonan - 68AutoBug - Australia -
ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

bookwus

Hiya Lee,

Right you are!

Yes, those small individual washers that are placed between the bolt head and the double placed washer are indeed locking washers.  This sort of washer pops up from time to time here in the states.  Much more common to see the split type locking washer.
ike

70 AS Bug