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Slames into gear

Started by raydon01, January 15, 2007, 02:53:42 PM

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raydon01

:D  All is well now. A new carb was put on the car before I got it so I did not know about the vac hose suppose to be put on the right side. The left side was the only place for a vac hose. When I drilled out the lright side ,as I was told to do in the instructions I recieved  here, The shift problem

corrected itself as you guys said it would. With out your help I would never have fixed it . Thanks  a bunch. Donald



1970 AS Ghia
1965 Euro Bug
970 AS  Ghia
1965  European Bug

volkenstein

Donald,
         Excellent result and thanks for posting back!

What make of 34 Pict 3 is your new one?

Did you drill 2mm all the way through then 4mm for the pipe part or just go all the way through with the same size?


Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

Cobey

BTW, is there info on how much vac is pulled from that location?  I was thinking of hooking up a little electric pump, but would need to know how much vac it should be set to draw.

Cheers!
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

volkenstein

Cobey,
         It takes about 5 in/hg to move the diaphragm, and I forgot to record at what in/hg will fully open it. I'll post up over the W/E what I figures I get off my two spares.


Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

Cobey

url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

volkenstein

All,
   So I grabbed the star of the "your control valve unplugged" thread and my other spare and mounted them in the lathe and whipped out a dial indicator and mityvac pump.

After carefully applying vacuum to both repeatedly and looking at the dial indicator I can safely say the following :

The star - required 5 in/Hg to move it to maximum travel which computed as 2.6mm. The moment I applied even a small amount, less than 2 in/Hg (mityvac guage starts at 2), the diaphragm moved.

The Good one - required 4 In/Hg to move it...2.6mm!! I was also able to determine it moved 1.8mm with 2 In/Hg applied. Easier to do the test because this one doesn't leak :x .

What I can also say (big deal :roll: ) is that the depth setting of the plastic pushrod using the brass slug from the unplugged thread is accurate. If you don't have a Bentley then you won't know what I am talking about.


Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

Cobey

Good work V!  Now the question is, how much vac does the correct port on the carb pull?  After all, if going to an external vac pump, matching the carb vac as close as possible is the key.  :)
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

stenis

Quote from: "Cobey"Good work V!  Now the question is, how much vac does the correct port on the carb pull?  After all, if going to an external vac pump, matching the carb vac as close as possible is the key.  :)

A standard Solex vac inlet pulls up to 5.9 In/Hg. Value recalculated from my graph at http://www.greenray.se:8000/VW1300/3

Cobey

So, if I put in a constant vac of 6 in/hg, it should be good, yes?
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

volkenstein

Cobey,
         I wouldn't go any higher that's for sure. I'll assume the pump is off at zero throttle to simulate when you shift gears?

And....what new trickery requires a non-engine/carb based source of vacuum?


Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

Cobey

My thought was to just leave the pump on all the time as  there is always some draw on the line, even at idle.

Ah, the trickery?  Well, my buddy has a '71 Ghia AS that is getting a monster sized motor.  Pretty much the biggest Type I you can get without adding a turbo or the like.  But, he doesn't want to lose the AS or monkey with the new motor.  So, we're coming up with ways to make the AS system separate from the engine.  

He already has an external pump working for the ATF, so all that is left is the vacuum stuff.  Getting the vacuum to control valve right so the torque from the motor does rip the trans in half by slamming into gear is quite important.
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

raydon01

:D  Sorry I have been out of pocket but now I am back. What I did was to drill a 1/16 Th. size drill bit all the way through the carb.  It  can out inside the throat of the carb. I then pulled out the brass tube that is on the left side of the carb ( as the carb sits on the engine).This tube is smaller in diamter than the other tubes and will fit into the right side hole you just drilled easer.This is also the tube with a very small hole in it and is usually where the vacume hose from the distribitur goes.I then put a rubber plug on the hose on the left side. Now the shifting is fine.
   My carb is a Boxcar 34 pict-3.
970 AS  Ghia
1965  European Bug

volkenstein

Donald,
          So you run a 009 or something else that doesn't require vacuum?

Interesting solution by the way :shock:

If it works for you then that's all that matters!


Regards
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

raydon01

:D Yes I have a 009 Dist. It all seems to work fine now.
970 AS  Ghia
1965  European Bug