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Newbie with (potentially) dumb questions

Started by 1961decepticon, February 06, 2007, 07:25:46 PM

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1961decepticon

Hello,

I have just purchased a 1968 Auto-Stick Beetle after having only driven or owned Regular manual VWs prior. The previous owner of my AS drove the car regularly and maintained it regularly, but I am having some "newbie" problems. I have looked over the forums and seen some info that might apply to me, but nothing that seemed an exact answer...

Being used to a clutch I have slammed on the brakes a few times on accident while going the motions to shift, and have shifted out of "1" a few times on accident. My mistakes and getting used to how it is different asside, I have had problems with the following and wondered if I am simply driving incorrectly since the previous owner seemed to have no issues.

Firstly and honestly I do not know how to properly drive the car.

The prev owner told me to start in "L" and then shift to "1" for driving around town, and "2" for the freeway... the Basic instructions. She also told me that after I go into "1" to keep it there even when I stop at lights so that I don't have a delay whan I start.

Right now I have noticed a good 2 second delay from when push the gas, to when I start to actually move in "L" so her advice to keep it in "1" after I have started going seems good, as once in "1" I get immediate respose and movement even from a dead stop at a stoplight. I have been giving it only a little gas since it seemed a better bet to go slow than to rev fast to get results, I might not be putting my foot in it enough to get faster responses. It does not seem to lug. I just don't want to rev to fast and damage it. Unfortunately, I don't seem to get seemles shifting. For instance I start in "L" and wait a few seconds before I move, after I am moving I shift into "1", but it acts like I go into "N" for an akward few seconds... The same amount of foot in the pedal gives a high RPM, then it seems to finally get into "1". from there I get the same thing when I go to "2", a delay... I do not know the speed at which to shift into "1" or "2"... I have noticed that if I am in "L" and I exceed a certain MPH it pops out and I start to rev like I am in "N". The same thing happens if I get to a certain MPH in "1" it just seems to pop into "N". I am hoping that is a saftey thing, like the motor will not stay in gear if it would be too fast for that gear, but I do not know...

I guess the end all of what I need answers to is:

1) What is the proper way to shift and at what MPH should I shift.

2) Is this delay normal? I believe it is at "L", but can it be avoided
    going into "1" and "2" it is awkward, especially when turning?

3) Should I keep it in "1" when I stop, or should I do like a manual and go
   N or L when I stop...

3) What is the proper procedure to downshift, or do you downshift at all?
   for instance, if I get off the freeway, should I shift from "2" into "1"
   or "L" as I decelerate, or am I okay to start up again at the bottom in
   "2"? it seems I would want to be in "1" as I am no longer going freeway
   speeds...

Any other tips or help for a newbie would be great....


Thanks!

bookwus

Hiya 61,

Welcome to the group!

Actually, your questions are right on the spot.  Many folks new to AutoSticks encounter some problems in their first driving experiences.  These problems are almost always of two varieties.  The first being a basic unfamiliarity with the AutoStick and the second is simply that the car/AutoStick are out of spec in some regard.

Your situation sounds like a little of both.

The PO's advice concerning shifting through the ranges (that's how VW refers to the "gears") would meet with general approval from most AutoStick drivers.  L-1-2 is generally how I get around.  For shift points I use the manual shift points (the little red markers) on the face of my speedometer.  But then again, mine's a 70.  Your speedometer (if original) is unique in that it is an AutoStick only item.  Since (as I recall) it does not have shift points, take the following for what it might be worth to you.  On my 70 speedo a shift from second gear (we're talking manual here) to third is indicated at 27 mph.  That is the point at which I shift from L to 1.  Another shift point is indicated at 42 mph (third to fourth) and I shift from 1 to 2.  Know also that these points are the upper limit for me; I often shift before I hit these speeds.

From your description it sounds as if the clutch action could stand some adjustment.  2 seconds (an eternity at a stop light) is waaay too long for a shift.  Adjustment can be accomplished by actually adjusting the clutch or the sharpness and softness (and speed) of the shift can be adjusted via the control valve adjusting screw.  To be honest though, the clutch adjust, the control valve adjust, and the idle speed of the engine all work together to determine the shifting "action" you feel.  A complete and thorough job of adjusting would include all three factors.

Also, it would be a good idea for you to check out your distributor.  Let us know what distributor you are currently running.  If it has been replaced (and many of them have been) it may not be entirely compatible with an AutoStickand could account for a lag in acceleration, especially from a stop.  You'll find the dizzy numbers embossed into the outside of the dizzy body.

When I come to a stop, my shift lever is in the Low range (from downshifting as I decelerate) and I'm ready to accelerate away from the light.  Again, as I downshift I pay attention to those afore-mentioned shift marks.  Downshifting should be a relatively smooth procedure IF everything is hooked up correctly and functioning.  Otherwise, a downshift could just about throw you through the windshield.  Well, probably not that bad, but you'll definitely feel it.

By the way, not to plug myself, but you might be interested in another thread here on VWAR.  It's called "The Care and Feeding of an AutoStick" and it's on one of the forums.  Check around, it's pretty basic information about the history, driving, and care of an AutoStick.

If you run into problems, this is the place to come.  Lots of folks here willing to share their expertise and experience.  Keep us up-to-date on how you do.
ike

70 AS Bug

1961decepticon

Thanks for the info on shift points, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't damaging anything. Any idea why it pops out at certain speeds? I think it is happening around 20 MPH in L and around 40 mph in 1.... I am hoping to find a shop that can give it a once over and tune up before I really start to drive it.

volkenstein

1961Deception,
                     As Mike has indicated, there is a lot to check up on before you can consider yourself 100% satisfied. Make sure (or have your mechanic make sure) that your CV is adjusted, you have NO vacuum leaks, your hoses are all correct and in their proper place, your clutch hasn't got excessive freeplay (or too little!).

Then you start on things like, is my gearstick properly functioning, located correctly, forward shift bushing OK, shift rod coupling OK (spring still attached?), No ATF or Oil fluid leaks from the bellhousing. Lastly do a stall speed test.

Basically eliminate every external possibility you can before the finger get's pointed at the transaxle as this is where $$$'s spent will start to rise exponentially.

And if you haven't already, get a Bentley manual for your year of bug.

As I read your description, it will get to a certain point (with forward motion) and then rev's rise without an increase in speed? Or does it just drop into "neutral"?


Enjoy
Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

1961decepticon

It seems like I will be going along fine and it kicks to neutral... RPMs go way up and forward momentum ceases. I have found that if I shift to N then back to the gear and wait the few seconds it starts going again. Are there any diagrams or photos here on the site that show how my vacume lines etc should be hooked up? I took a look and I have a .009 Distributer, and also all of my vaccume connections are plugged off on the carburator... This would not be a big deal on a regular motor (depending on the setup) but I don't know if that is acceptable for an auto stick...

Cobey

Ok, the 009 shouldn't be an issue.  At least, not a major one.  Nothing plugged into the carb though is...odd.  Vac from the carb is what is used to drive the control valve which operates the servo which in turn does the clutch action.

A few more answers to your questions:

1) What is the proper way to shift and at what MPH should I shift. -

For me, it's fairly simple.  L for 0-20.  1 for 20-40 (or 50 if merging on the freeway).  2 for 40+.  Going backwards, I drop of 2 to 1 at ~20 and from 1 to L at ~5.

2) Is this delay normal? I believe it is at "L", but can it be avoided
going into "1" and "2" it is awkward, especially when turning?

The delay is not normal.  My thought is that you have a leaky vac line that is delaying your shift.  You probably don't get this going from L to 1 or 1 to 2 because the engine is revved higher and the vac is increased.

3) Should I keep it in "1" when I stop, or should I do like a manual and go
N or L when I stop...

Depends on how you decide to drive.  According to the original manual, L was ONLY used when you needed higher torque because you were pulling something.  So, leaving it in 1 at a stop is just fine.  If using all 3 gears, drop to L prior to your stop (or when you've stopped) and leave it there until you're ready to go to 1.

3) What is the proper procedure to downshift, or do you downshift at all?
for instance, if I get off the freeway, should I shift from "2" into "1"
or "L" as I decelerate, or am I okay to start up again at the bottom in
"2"? it seems I would want to be in "1" as I am no longer going freeway
speeds...

See #1 about down shifting.  The biggest issue is, not to be running around in 2 when you drop below ~25mph.  That heats up the ATF if left there for too long, and is the reason autosticks broke down a lot when they first came out.  Folks would just leave them in 2, burn out the system, and then complain.
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

1961decepticon

Thank you again for the info, I thought it was odd that the lines were capped on the Carb, as I thought I had read they were involved in the shifting. I am trying to get it in to have a pro look at it. I was able to find a shop in town that had experience working on them. I have the Bently book, but what  want to do is have somone experienced give it the once over and get it running nicely, then once I have a good place to start I can hopefully learn to maintain it there.

Cobey

Got a digital camera?  If so, post some pics of your motor.  We might be able to spot what is going on before you shell out the $$ for a mechanic.
url=http://tinyurl.com/fa227](0)(=|=)(0)[/url] 68 Ghia Vert - Gina
(O\U|U/O) 72 Super AS Vert - Edel
(O\U|U/O) 71 Super - Herman

1961decepticon


1961decepticon

I looked over things and my vacuume line to the Control valve was not hooked up, it had been capped off. I hooked that up and it fixed the delay in shifting too much, I had to dial the valve down quite a bit so the the clutch engaged slower and the car doesn't "slam into gear" I got it to be pretty smooth, there is still a small jolt when I get into gear, but not like before. feels close to a regular automatic car. I put it in gear and a breath later there is a slight jump as it engages into gear. this is not accompanied by any noise, so I think it is right.

One problem I have is that prior to fixing this I would grind slightly when I tried to go into reverse, Now I seem to grind harshly when I go into reverse. No other gears grind or have issues. What might be up now?

volkenstein

1961Decepticon,
                      If your 100% sure it's on the right port, then check your shift plate, shift bush and rear coupler. If they aren't sloppy, time to check/adjust freeplay.

Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

68AutoBug

Hi
I hope you get everything fixed up OK...

and I will admit to hitting the Brake pedal instead of a clutch pedal :oops:  :oops:
many times....

usually when going from drive 1 to drive 2....

My Son asked Me recently when driving away from His place, why I had locked up all 4 wheels in My beetle.... :oops:  :oops:

as My other car is a manual.... Luckily I don't drive it too often...

cheers

Lee Noonan   68AutoBug   Australia

ttp://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
--- 68AutoBug  ---  Lee  ---  Australia ---
-- helping keep Air Cooled Volkswagen Automatics on the road -  Around the World --

1961decepticon

I am not at all sure I plugged it into the right port. The carb had only one port that seemed to be vacuume, also it was the only one that matched the size of the tube on the control valve and would resonably use a hose the same size. Which port should be used?

volkenstein

1961Decepticon,
                       If you've got a '68 it should be a single port. And easy way to tell is look at the intake manifold. If it has no rubber joins to cast aluminium pieces near the shroud pipes on either sides, and is a single pipe from the head to cast part on the manifold then you have a single port. The advance (009 = not used) faces left and comes from the left as you look at the engine. A forward facing one is for the CV. And since you've said the pipe is a good fit my guess would be you have it right.

As Cobey has already said....pics are fantastic for diagnosis!


Volkenstein
1 Super RHD Semi-Auto "Klaus"

1961decepticon

Hello,

My motor is not original, it is a dual port. I will see if I can get some pics.