'68 Semi Auto

AUTO · 27 January 2009, 18:20

Hi chris glad you've got it sorted now good luck with the rest
of the rebuild
buy the way the bentley book says to install new sealing nuts
with their plastic facing to-ward the pump cover i wonder if
they mean nylocks any way it might be worth trying them
all the best phil

FlamingChris · 27 January 2009, 18:28

Yeah i bought a kit from EVW that had the sealing nuts with it, just smaller versions of the 6 main case nuts.

hercdriver · 27 January 2009, 19:54

I think these are what you're looking for. They also have new seals/ gasket for the pump.

http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=111115161&Category_Code=

AUTO · 27 January 2009, 20:52

Thanks for that Herc
I'll get some ordered asap

volkenstein · 28 January 2009, 00:14

Lee/Chris,

. I think I did balls up that engine number search!!. So, not quite the son of 100 maniacs, maybe just one PO

.

I would hazard a guess that since it is a late case, your oil galleries are 1600TP size? Have you got dual relief valves in it too? Why on earth a flat cam in a late case

. Maybe

Anyway, sounds like you are good to go!

Regards
Sean

FlamingChris · 28 January 2009, 00:50

It's a late case as it's dual relief. What's the difference between the flat and dished cam, or maybe my question should be why did VW change from a flat to dished cam? This engine was a 1200 SP when i took it apart and it'll now become a 1500 SP, well it will tomorrow...

volkenstein · 28 January 2009, 01:40

Chris,
I can only hazard a guess, and that would be the uprating of the oil system demanded certain changes. The dished cams are more recessed at the slot than a flat cam, although just about every aftermarket cam is still a flat cam. I would have thought VW would've changed every Type 1/3 engine over but maybe (as Lee has mentioned) because of the 1200/1300 SP's still being made they just used the old technology and the 1300/1600 DP's went "new"?

You could also have an aftermarket cam if that previous statement isn't true?

Dunno really....

Anyway, roll on tomorrow with the stump pulling 1500 cc's of unleashed flat four mayhem!!!

Regards
Sean

FlamingChris · 28 January 2009, 02:07

Well so long as it doesn't cause me any issues further down the line then i'm happy with it!

FlamingChris · 28 January 2009, 17:48

Today i realised my rookie mistake, i didn't know that the 1200 engines had a different crank and conrod size so as i started to try to knock the gudgeon pins into the conrod i found out they were too large (i think the 1200's used 20mm and everything else was 22mm). So it' looks like i've got to split the case again to swap the crank. I do have a spare crank in my garage but that came from the egine that dropped the valve so i'd expect it to be bent, so i'll buy a new one with conrods etc.

AUTO · 28 January 2009, 18:29

Hi chris
I thought i'd had a bad day today, i got my engine back together
with the pistons barrels and heads push rod tubes ect all bolted up
then i looked down and saw the air defector plates that should have
been under the barrels before i fitted the push rod tubes

my engine will have done 25 miles before it even starts

good luck
cheers phil

FlamingChris · 28 January 2009, 18:33

Oh no, bad luck Phil! I keep having to remind myself to do that cos i know i'll forget otherwise!

Took some snaps of the difference in the size of the pins, left is the 1200 pin and right is the 1500 i intended to fit:

Bookwus · 28 January 2009, 19:01

Hiya Phil,

Quote from: AUTO on 28 January 2009, 18:29
........i got my engine back together
with the pistons barrels and heads push rod tubes ect all bolted up
then i looked down and saw the air defector plates that should have
been under the barrels before i fitted the push rod tubes......

Ain't that the pitts!? This kinda thing is really common with me. But I've learned to deal with it over the years. Now I always break down the building process into steps. I don't allow myself to think of the next step until the one I'm working on is done. And if I do think of something upcoming, I make a note of it so I can forget it for the time being.

And if even if I do screw up and leave something out, I just go in and redo it (what else are you gonna do?) and chalk it up to experience knowing that its not a mistake I'll make again.

AUTO · 28 January 2009, 19:52

Hi mike
im gettng plenty of experiance with this engine, and i hope it'll never happen
again, it's the 4th time ive had a go at building this engine,it was a running
1600 once then i decided to fit some 1641barrels and pistons and new twin port
heads as i intended to put it in my splitty it ran fine for a week or two then the
big ends started nocking
The second time i fitted new bearings and a full flow oil cooler from the pump cover
to keep things cool, that time it lasted 3 minutes before it sezed, i had been told to
block off one of the holes on the pump so the oil could travel out of the pump cover
and round the oil cooler and yes you guest it i had blocked up the wrong one

so buy then i'd had enough so the bus got a new engine
fast forward a couple of years and im still trying to build the bloody thing
why do we do it

chris dont let it beat you you now it'll be worth it in the end
tommorows another day and all that
all the best phil

FlamingChris · 28 January 2009, 20:28

I'll not let it beat me....the only bit i'm unsure about is whether the 69mm crank will fit in where the 64mm crank did??
I suppose there's only one way to find out, i'll start stripping it down tomorrow (maybe a little tonight as my workshop is my lounge) and i'll trial fit the sare crank i have to see if there are any issues.

FlamingChris · 29 January 2009, 02:11

After a lot of reading and advice taking it turns out as it's a later case it's a universal one. So i've just ordered myself a new crankshaft and installation kit, reconditioned conrods, and all the bearings and shims i'll need. I'm determined to get this to at least a long block before i go away to work on tuesday!