'68 Semi Auto

FlamingChris · 15 April 2009, 20:13

After waiting ages for my tinwear to arrive and after hunting out the remaining bits i had left in the shed i started putting it together a bit more today.
I started to put the exhaust together but i'm not sure how far the tail pipes are supposed to poke out, i read in my Bentley book that there were differing lengths that these should be but the book i have is for the later beetles. Could somebody provide me some guidance on how these are fit?

I was having a few fitment issues with the exhaust to heat exchanger (i know i need to slip the clamps on before i fit it properly, but it's coming apart again soon).

I plan to get all my tinwear powdercoated (hence the engine coming apart once i've made sure everything fits) but I remember that someone said there were a few AS specific pieces, i.e. holes for the ATF pipes from the pump. So out the ones i list below could someone guide me on which one i should try to fit.

On these bits the only difference i can see between them is the rectangular cut out in the right hand side of the bottom piece in the picture.

Then out of these three bits the difference i can find is the hole on the left hand side of the bottom piece.

When i offered these bits up to the engine they look like this, but i was wondering what the pieces that sit around the heat risers fit to?

I offered up the aftermarket tin and as expected it didn't fit at all:

Bookwus · 15 April 2009, 21:49

Hiya Chris,

Yeah, ain't aftermarket tin a sad affair?

About your pictures and your tin pieces................

Your front tin: You are right, the only difference between the two is that rectangular hole. The hole is in later tin to accomodate the air dump pieces on a doghouse fanshroud. If you are using a doghouse fanshroud you will need the piece with the hole. Otherwise, use the hole-less piece.

Rear tin: The tin at the bottom of your picture is AutoStick specific. That's the one to use. The small extra hole allows the metal line from the oil/ATF pump to connect up with the rubber reinfoced line leading forward to the bell housing.

Preheat pipe insulation: All of your rear tins will "fit" in this respect. But do be aware that there is another piece (on each side of the rear tin) that completes the insulation of the preheat pipe insulation. This piece fits in front of the pipe and screws into the cylinder tin. Notice the capture nut just ahead of the preheat pipe?

Tailpipes: To be honest, I don't think that there is an official standard for length. I have always lined up my tailpipes with the rear edge of the bumper and called it good. For what it's worth, the measurement between the muffler body and the end of my tailpipes is 23 and half cm.

FlamingChris · 15 April 2009, 22:40

Quote from: Bookwus on 15 April 2009, 21:49

Preheat pipe insulation: All of your rear tins will "fit" in this respect. But do be aware that there is another piece (on each side of the rear tin) that completes the insulation of the preheat pipe insulation. This piece fits in front of the pipe and screws into the cylinder tin. Notice the capture nut just ahead of the preheat pipe?

Thanks! Wish i'd taken the thing apart in the first place, it would've made piecing everything back together a bit easier!

So these extra bits of tin that i'm missing, what do they look like? I'll see if i've got any in the piles of parts that came with the car.

As for the full kit of aftermarket tin i shelled out money for, i don't think i've used a single bit of it yet! I'm hoping that it i get all these genuine bits cleaned up and powdercoated then i shouldn't have too many fitment issues int he future.

volkenstein · 18 April 2009, 05:48

Chris,
Have you get the tinware (ears) that bolt to the cylinder covers (they run sort of from the crank pulley to the exhaust port)?
I'll try and post a sticky photie of those, along with an "up close and personal" of a heat riser bit. Speaking of them, they had asbestos (in the good ol' days) rings for insulation.

Regards
Sean

Bookwus · 18 April 2009, 06:12

Hiya Sean,

This little tidbit might be of interest................

In my latest engine building spree I've had to replace those asbestos rings in the preheat tin a couple of times. Wolfsburg West has the material for this little operation so I ordered out from them. The stuff they sent me looks exactly like asbestos. So I zapped an e-mail down to Ron Bengery, the big kahuna at WW. "They're not asbestos", says he. Instead WW is using a "modern exhaust insulating product" for this application.

volkenstein · 18 April 2009, 06:38

Mike,
Funnily enough..WW is the place I had bookmarked for those rings

. Still, like decent air con refrigerant going the way of the dodo...best to move with the times!

Regards
Sean

volkenstein · 18 April 2009, 14:07

Chris,
Little problematical trying to photo those heat riser bits when everything is fitted. Here's a page for you:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/engine/40_hp_engine.cfm

No 36 are the seals and you can see the little tinware piece. You need a left and right side.

Here's those two other tins:

HTH
Sean

Bookwus · 18 April 2009, 15:12

Hiya Sean,

I notice that the engine pictured is not set up for an AS. Do you have another VW we know nothing about?

FlamingChris · 18 April 2009, 20:23

Cheers for the help, i do have the 'ears' and i should have some (more) tinware bits coming soon for the preheat pipes. I'll put an order in at WW for those gasket bits.

volkenstein · 19 April 2009, 01:35

Mike,
No other dubs, just that engine. That's why I've got the oil pumps, flexplate etc in the parts bin. Swapped the stock manifold with an A-S/Type 2 one locally. That was a piece of luck!

Regards
Sean

FlamingChris · 18 May 2009, 20:53

Just a quick question, I'm awaiting my tinware to come back from the powdercoaters (probably another week to go) and then after i've put the endfloat shims in it'll be ready to go into the back of the car. Now I've got myself the seal for the torque convertor and a new re-con flexplate to go on, what else do i need and what type (i.e. clutch)

?

Also an engine building question.... I measured my endfloat last night and it came out a 1.2mm, in my Bentley book it says you're allowed within 0.07 and 0.13mm. If i use three of the largest shims the 0.36mm then i can bring it down to 0.12mm endfloat, now i know this is within tolerance but isn't it a bit close to the upper end of the acceptable limit or am i being a bit too cautious?

Oh and before i go is it best to fit the control valve before or after the engine goes in?

Bookwus · 18 May 2009, 21:30

Hiya Chris,

The tinware: Be prepared to put a few nicks and chips in that powdercoat. I've found that, without fail, tin takes some bending and tweaking for it to fit properly. And, yes, I am referring to original tin, not the aftermarket stuff (which is WAY worse in this respect). But don't get too upset about it. It's pretty much par for the course on any engine assembly. Just knowing this before you get into it might help you avoid some of this petty damage.

The shims: Hoo Boy! I do all my shim measurement in inches rather than millimeters. But here goes anyway........ Endplay is supposed to be between .003 and .006 inches. I always aim for the lowest tolerance (.003) and am happy with anything less than .0045. In other words, yes, aim for the low end of allowable endplay. Get it as close to .07 mm as you can.

The control valve: By all means, mount that sucker before you install the engine. I also hooked up my hoses to the clutch servo and the vacuum reservoir tank at the same time.

A hint: Leave the back end (the rear tin, the fan belt, heater hosing, ATF lines, etc.) off the engine when you install it. This will make it a lot simpler to get the engine into the engine compartment and lined up to mate with the transaxle. It's a bit of a bear to install the rear tin afterward but it makes engine installation a LOT easier. And if you need any tips on actual engine installation, zap us here at VWAR. Just got done installing mine.............

FlamingChris · 18 May 2009, 21:40

The problem with the shims is that i have to use the three largest ones to bring it just within tolerance, there aren't any larger ones available....Why can you only use three and why do they only go up to a certain size (or is that just over here)?

A engine installation step by step would be very handy especially with where the seals go for the front and rear as i've only every fit the baja engine which is pretty much offer it up and slide it in, then connect up the wiring.

FlamingChris · 24 May 2009, 23:44

Am i right in thinking i need a 180mm clutch kit like this one?

http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=12050&xSec=355

Bookwus · 25 May 2009, 01:07

Hiya Chris,

Those parts will not do the job for an AutoStick. What's more, the clutch assembly parts for an AutoStick are unique. Even worse, they are, for all intents and purposes, just about unobtainable. At least the throwout bearing is. The clutch disc can be located without undue difficulty. The pressure plate might be located with a lot of undue difficulty.

I'd advise that you determine if you really need new parts inside the bellhousing. The clutch assembly parts in an AutoStick have an amazing lifespan. Much, much, much longer than that of their manual counterparts.