'68 Semi Auto

[FlamingChris]

I have the special tool, to stop those washers coming off i put on some vaseline to stick them to the bottom of the hole. I've been hunting through the parts today for the dizzy today but the one i've found doesn't match up with whats written in the technical section. The numbers have written on the side are:

0 231 137 039
111 905 205 AA

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Hmmmmm.............those numbers are a mystery to me.

Yours is obviously a different distributor than the 205AA (VW 113-905-205AA) specified for the 69 AutoStick,  Even it's Bosch parts number is different.  What is most surprising to me is that the alpha suffix is the same.  I'm wondering if these two could be interchangeable.

[FlamingChris]

Did a little bit more today, i fit the dizzy and the fuel pump (although i had to do a 2 hour round trip to pick the bits up):



Then i called it a day when i needed to go find a stud (from the dark shed at the bottom of the garden) to fit to the cylinder head for the manifold:

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Just a hint.................pull those valve covers and take a careful look for debris inside your valve covers.  The holes for the intake manifold studs go all the way through the top of the head and into the rocker area.  If you have loosened aluminum shavings (from the threads) or just debris it will wind up on the valve springs and worse.......right around the valve guide.  Bad news!

[FlamingChris]

Good shout, i'll have a gander in the morning.
I had a search around the web to see what i could find out about the dizzy i have. From The Old Volks Home:

Beetle 1969-1970 * 1500/1600 Manual Trans

Distributor: VW 113-905-205T, Bosch 0231 137 035 or 036
Replacement: VW 111-905-205AA, Bosch 0231 137 039
Points: 01 013
Points Replacement Plate Assy: VW 111-905-227B, Bosch 1237 110 139
Condensor: 02 007 - Note: If equipped w/AC use 02 069
Rotor: 04 033
Cap: 03 010
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 00 015 (Blue Coil: 00 012)
Vacuum Can: 07 024 (Replacement uses Bosch 1237 121 400)
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 0deg TDC Static or @ 800-950rpm w/strobe w/vacuum hose disconnected and plugged
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum (Advance Only): 17-19deg @ 1.3 In. Hg, 32-35deg @ 3.2 In. Hg

Doesn't really mean that much to me in the case of use-ability.

[volkenstein]

Chris,
       It's sort of an alternate fitment (for an A-S!) to the same type of engine. The only unknown is how much Vacuum the 30 Pict 2 you have pulls, being an A-S carb. In a manual car your carb is rated to work with one of these. Since they time at TDC and go to 35ish eventually I'd check it with a strobe to make sure at least it's advancing smoothly and your carb's vacuum supply to it isn't vicious enough to max advance @ 1500 rpm or some such. I'd mark your pulley in 15mm increments and check what rev's do what vacuum advance. 15mm-ish is about 10 Deg on a stock pulley outer diameter.

If all feels good and you never hear the dreaded "marbles in can"....it'll get you around at least!

HTH
Sean

[FlamingChris]

What does the 'marbles in a can sound mean'? I've never heard of it before.

Didn't get too far yesterday, i found that the new scat fan shroud i'd bought wouldn't fit cos the internal vanes collided with the oil cooler and then i've been trying to work out this lower tinware malarky. Having only ever owned a baja before i've never had to deal with tinware and i think because they're new they just don't fit correctly.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Don't sweat the tinware fitment issue too much.

I always make it a point to recondition and use the tinware when I do a rebuild.  Even with the OEM German tinware I can usually expect a bit of twisting and tweaking to get everything to fit properly.  Just take your time.  And if you run into a "there's no way in Hell this piece is gonna fit" kinda situation; my advice would be to ditch that aftermarket part in favor of a used OEM part.

[68autobug]

Yes, I have seen aftermarket tinware for sale recently
"Will Fit Properly"   as many people have problems
especially using an aftermarket fan shroud plus the original VW tinware..

I've had My fan shroud off many times...
sometimes it fits on neat and exact....
othertimes I have to fiddle with it a few times
before it settles into place....
so long as the fan doesn't touch the fan shroud...

I know many people have thrown the flaps away...??
I don't know why..??  and their engines are still going...

cheers

LEE

[FlamingChris]

Well i have a stock fanshroud, but i'm having issues fitting the lower tin to the head tin, there appears to be an inch gap where they should bolt together at the flywheel end. Unfortunately both bits of head tin and the lower tin that i have on the engine are the third party copies. My plan is to take the fanshroud back off and swap the head tin with the one stock version i have and then fit the lower tin. If the lower tin fits then it's the aftermarket head tin thats crap and needs replacing, if the lower tin still doesn't fit then it's that that's faulty and i'll see if i can get hold of some stock bits. I'll start on that tomorrow as i'm still going to be sitting out in the middle of the sea until 5 o'clock tonight..

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Yeah, I had some very good advice from a tech working a counter in my local VW parts place (FLAPS).  Even though he sold the stuff he warned me away from aftermarket tin.  "You'll have a terrible time getting it to fit properly", he said.  "You're much better off scrounging a boneyard for used German tin and cleaning it up."  I've only used the original stuff since then.  And as I mentioned before, sometimes I do have to tweak it a bit to get it in place.  I can only imagine what kind of frustrations I'd be going through with the aftermarket stuff.

And what the devil are you doing out in the middle of the sea?

[FlamingChris]

Well i've put up a few posts on the U.K. forums for single port tinware, we'll just see what turns up.

As for being out in the middle of the sea, it's where i work for 6 months a year (albeit 2 weeks on, 2 weeks off) on oil & gas platforms.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Chris,

Well i've put up a few posts on the U.K. forums for single port tinware, we'll just see what turns up.

As they say in real estate, it's location, location, location.  I have had to round up a few tin pieces over the past week for my next engine build.  Most all of what I found was single port tin, mainly cylinder tin and fanshrouds and a lot of single port manifolds.  The guy who runs the boneyard says there isn't much call for the single port stuff because most folks are rebuilding their engines as dual ports

..As for being out in the middle of the sea, it's where i work for 6 months a year (albeit 2 weeks on, 2 weeks off) on oil & gas platforms.

Oh yeah!  I've seen a few shows dealing with life on those platforms.  Looks to be fascinating and just a bit scary at times.  You out in the North Sea?  What is it that you do out there in the oil & gas business?

[FlamingChris]

I think i've found some over here, it's got a few holes in but the guy's going to patch them up for me before he sends them.

Yeah i work out in the North Sea as an Instrument Engineer, it's maintaining and fixing control and measurement devices.

[68autobug]

Chris,
       Er, being a recidivist, I do my valves clockwise...following engine rotation. That new style dissy drive is a doozy, but practical!

Regards
Sean

You adjust the valves and turn the crankshaft clockwise??

I have enough problems turning it anti clockwise..//   lol

LEE