Engine removal / reinstall procedure

[bowlingbrad]

Autostickers,

I am planning to do a little overhaul of my engine starting the beginning of March (hopefully).  I have never removed an engine before, so I thought I would post a few questions.

• Is there a step by step procedure to follow?  What should I make sure to do, in what order?
• Is there anything special to do with a Ghia vs a bug?
• If I invite my vdub friends to help, do I have to make sure they understand the specifics of autosticks?
• What parts should I ABSOLUTELY replace if I'm doing this?
• Any other tips would be appreciated!

Thanks so much for your help,
Brad

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

I'll take a first crack at this..................

1.  The Bentley manual has an 18 or twenty step procedure for removing the engine.  And they do include AutoStick specific steps.  It's easier to point you that way than to try to rewrite the whole procedure based on my experience.  However, let me say this.............the removal of an AutoStick engine is really not all that different than pulling a manual engine.  There are some extra wires, vacuum hoses, and ATF lines to cope with.  Along that line, make some provision for dripping ATF.  That stuff will continue to "bleed" almost as long as you have your engine out.  I cut golf tees and placed them in the hose ends and then taped them in place. 
If you should run into problems during the engine removal be sure to post up here with questions.

2.  Not that I'm aware.  But then again, I've not done a Ghia.

3.  Well, that sure wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.  It's more important in my opinion that they make very careful notes about EXACTLY how things come apart so that they can be reassembled correctly.  Be sure that YOU handle getting the flexplate off.  It's too easy to warp if done incorrectly.

4.  OK, in an engine overhaul I'd be gearing up to replace pistons and cylinders, regrind or replace the crankshaft, regrind or replace the camshaft and the lifters, have the heads checked out/worked over by a good machine shop, and, of course, all new engine seals.  With respect to AutoStick specific equipment, I can think only of two areas that I'd consider absolutely necessary........the oil/ATF pump should be disassembled and cleaned with new internal seals (there's two of 'em) installed.  And you'll need a new torque converter seal if you remove your torque converter.  And other parts needed will depend on the current condition of your engine and tranny.

5.  You might give some serious consideration to removing the clutch servo before you have your buddies over.  It's a tough little job to pull that thing with the tranny in place but it makes tranny removal quite a bit easier.  I'd also recommend that you remove as much "stuff" from the engine as is reasonably possible before you drop it.  Carburetor, distributor...........anything you can get out of the engine compartment will make life easier during the actual engine removal.  Also give some thought to pulling off your rear wheels and removing the engine through the wheel wells.  It will mean that you'll not have to get your car so high on blocks.

[bowlingbrad]

Mike,
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond!  I will have to study my bentley manual over and over.

I don't know if I'm the one to keep an eye on the flexplate.  I would be the one to warp it.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

Nah, you'll do fine with the flexplate.  Just have the other guys keep their mitts off it.  It really is tender and there is VERY little clearance between it and the crankcase when it is properly installed.  Bending or warping it is doom for sure.

Here's what you do.............  take a look at this close-up that I lifted from DaMunk (thanks DM!).......



Notice that the holes the yellow arrows are pointing at are threaded?  Just thread in an M8 bolt (got it right that time, didn't I Sean?) in each of these two holes until it bottoms out on the crank face just behind the flexplate.  Now grab your 13mm wrench and tighten each bolt about a half turn in alternating steps.  The bolts will come bear against the crank face and push the flexplate off as neat as you could believe.  No warping, no bending, and no sweat!

[bowlingbrad]

Cool Mike!
Thanks...

Hey,  I just got a request from the wife to do some pricing on replacement engines.  Is there any out there that are better than others?  Any to avoid?

We are thinking of this because there is oil leaking out of the cylinder heads and we don't know how much we want to fiddle with a full overhaul.

Please forgive my lack of knowledge.

[volkenstein]

Brad,
       If your wife wants to know what a farmed out rebuild would cost...
     
Avoid in the US - yes. GEX.
Also don't get a REMTEC reco'd motor. There is nothing wrong with them per se, but they basically go max oversize on bearing etc so you'll never be able to re-use your case.

Search Feedback on TheSamba for builders.

Speaking of that, the only real difference in cases (manual vs A-S) is studs (oil (length) and bottom two trans mounts.

I would (hey it's your money, I'll feel free to spend it ) take your engine to a reputable builder and get them to do YOUR motor. No cores or exchange type deals.

Not too many shops do A-S motors but they can still build the basics. Dependant on oil pump fitted to yours you may be able to run a mild cam, or get your's reground. I think you can buy stock dished cams with gears, but that is it...stock. Aircooled.net has C30 Scat dished (with gear) but SCAT isn't making them anymore and it's like an Engle 110 so would be rough idling in a single carbed motor. What engine have you got? SP or TP?

Capacity is up to you. 1776 is a fairly standard upgrade. Try not to break 90Hp at the brochure.



1.25 cents....

Regards
Sean

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

Yes............what Sean said.

I'll go a bit further..............be very suspicious of anybody who advertises their engines heavily.  That's not to say these guys are crooks or incompetents, but some of the better known crooks and incompetents prey on unknowing consumers via glitzy ads.  As Sean has mentioned, if at all possible contract for an engine with a local who has a good reputation.  This allows you to follow-up with him if there are problems.

Short of that, I'd consider buying a NEW Mexican long block before I'd ever buy from a rebuilder.  The Mexican long blocks have developed a good reputation.  And while they are set up for a manual tranny, changing them over to an AS set-up is not at all difficult.

In any event, before you buy or commit to buy (or whatever) post up here and ask.  That alone could save you some grief.

[volkenstein]

Guys,
       

I'd consider buying a NEW Mexican long block

. Forgot about those. Get one outright and swap over the A-S specifics, measure & set end-play, button up, drop it in, tune it up and away you go!

Another plus side is you still have an engine to rebuild in your spare time.....

Regards
Sean

[bowlingbrad]

Mike and Sean,
You guys are awesome!  I like the 'buy Mexican' option.  Then my wife and I can experiment with an engine to see what the heck is going on in there.

So, where should I look for them?  MAMW has them, right?
Should I get one without a 34PICT3 and SVDA?  I already purchased and installed SVDA, and modified the carb.
Is there a different way to set up the air filter?  Mine is the oil bath type.  Should it be different?
Any samba thread links to share?

Getting excited!

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

A Mexican Longblock is a Mexican Longblock is a Mexican Longblock.  These longblock engines are produced by VWMexico.  They are exactly the same engine that went into Bugs when they were being produced in Mexico.  In other words, they are factory engines.  However, do be careful that what you buy is a NEW Mexican Longblock.  As was mentioned earlier in this thread not all advertisers are exactly "forthright" in describing their products for sale.  In other words "Caveat Emptor" definitely applies here.

Ok, now knowing that any real Mexican Longblock came from just one place, the VW factory, you shop mainly on the basis of price.  MidAmerican Motorworks has a terrible reputation for overpricing their products.  They are not one of the places I'd start looking.  Shop around and spend some time online.  Any of the more reputable outfits (Wolfsburg West, OEVeeDub, CBPerformance, AutoHausAZ, Airhead, German Supply, etc.) should be able to give a price on a Mexican Longblock.  Remember too that shipping will play an important part in your decision.  And an important point, the companies above will stand behind what they sell.

A longblock engine consists of case, crank, cam, cylinders and pistons, heads, pulley, fuel and oil pumps.  No tinware, generator/alternator, intake manifold, carburetor, distributor, or exhaust components.  Basically, a longblock is the "heart" of the engine.  So, you'll need to supply your own carburetor and distributor.

You definitely want to run your stock oil bath air filter.  The engine needs to be warmed up properly and a stock oil bath airfilter with the proper connections does that job.  Aftermarket air filters do not.

Hmmmmmmm.....I don't have a Samba link on my cuff for the Mexican Longblock, but I'll see if I can turn one.

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

Try these....................

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=208830&highlight=mexican+longblock

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=199986&highlight=mexican+longblock

[bowlingbrad]

Thanks for the links.  But I think my research is headed in a different direction:

<take the dash out between you and tube>

http://www.you-tube.com/watch?v=IzG9hUc9IMg

http://www.you-tube.com/watch?v=P7ovmL3j_zk

[bowlingbrad]

I found this one at aircooled.net:

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ESE0001&cartid=1222200998886015

Any comments?

[Bookwus]

Hiya Brad,

That's the genuine article.  And Aircooled.net is a stand-up company.  John Connolly, the owner, knows his stuff and sells only good merchandise.

That having been said, it seems to me that $2500 is a bit high for this longblock.  But take that statement with a grain of salt.  I have not been in the market for such an engine in a long while and I'm not really up on the going price these days.  I would suggest doing some more online "window shopping" just to compare prices. 

[bowlingbrad]

Here are some others.  I just don't know which one to pick.  Should I pull some numbers off of my engine and post so that you guys can suggest correctly?  I am clueless.

http://www.strictlyvw.com/top.html

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1415

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C15-1776LB

Am I going to request something special in order to get my 34PICT3 to work?